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UNITED STATES OF AIV3ERSCA. ^ 



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AMERICAN LINES. 



ONTARIO AND ST. LAAYRENCE 

w 

STEAMBOAT COMPANY'S 

HAND-BOOK FOR TRAYELERS 



NIAGAEA FALLS, 

MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, 

AND 

THROUGH LAKE CHAMPLAUST 

TO SAKATOGA SPRINGS. 




illustratcb CTH ^gTa pgC^ffH^^ iwitfr o ug ISntjra&t'ngs 

From Original Sketches. 







BUFFALO: 






PUBLISHED 


BY JEWETT, THOMAS 


& 


CO., 


D. 


M. 


DEWEY, ROCHESTER. 








18 53. 








C^ 










'v :^, 







Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1052, 
By J. VAN CLEVE. 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 
Northern District of New York, 






JEWETT, THOMAS AND CO. 
Sterootypers and P.'ir. t era, 

MUFFALO, N. Y. 



LAKE ONTARIO. 



Steamboat (Hompanp. 



TRUSTEES. 

E. B. ALLEN", President Ogdensburgh, K T. 

H. VAN" RENSSELAER Ogdensburgh, K T. 

G. K SEYMOUR.... Ogdensburgh, N. Y. 

A. CHAPMAN MoRBisTowN, IST. Y. 

E. G. MERRICK Clayton, K Y. 

S. BUCKLEY Watertown, K Y. 

A. MUNSON Utica, K Y. 

T. S. FAXTON Utica, N. Y. 

HAMILTON WHITE Syracuse, K Y. 

LUTHER WRIGHT Oswego. K Y. 

HENRY FITZHUGH Osweoo, 17. Y. 



OFFICE OF the COMPANY, AT OSWEGO, N. T. 

J. VAN CLEVE, Teeasuskb 



GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 



3.853^ 

NIAGARA FALLS AND MONTREAL. 
LAKE OIJTAEIO. 



Ontario and St. Lawrence Steamboat Company 

"Will, during the season, run two daily lines, 

BETWEEN LE WISTON AND MONTREAL. 




UNITED STATES MAIL LINE, 
Composed of the large and commodious Lake Steamers, 

BAY STATE Capt. J. H. LEDYARD. 

ONTARIO Capt. H.K. THROOP 

NIAGARA Capt. J. B. ESTES. 

CATARACT Capt. R. F. CHILD. 

And the beautiful River Steamers, 

JENNY LIND Capt. L. MOODY. 

BRITISH EMPIRE Capt. D. S. ALLEN*. 

BRITISH QUEEN Capt. LAFLAMME. 



GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 



Oue of these large and superior Lake Steamers leaves Lew- 
iston every day, connecting at Oswego with the railroads to 
Albany, at Ogdensburgh with the railroads through l^ew 
England to Boston, and the above named River Steamers to 
Montreal, as follows: 



DOWN THE LAKE. 

Leave Lewiston, (Saturdays except- 
ed), 3 p.m. 

Leave Rochester, 10 p.m. 

Leave Oswego, connecting 
with cars for Albany,.. 7 a.m. 

Leave Sacketts Harbor,.. lOg a. m. 

Leave Kingston, 1p.m. 

Leave Ogdensburgh, 8a.m. 

and arrive in Montreal at 5 p. m, 
passing the Thousand Is- 
lands and all the Rapids 
by daylight. 



UP THE LAKE. 

Leave Montreal, (Sundays except- 
ed,) 4 p.m. 

Leave Ogdensburgh, on ar- 
rival of cars from Boston, 7 p. m. 

Leave Kingston, 7 a.m. 

Leave Sacketts Harbor, ..10^ a. m. 

Leave Oswego on arrival of 
cars from Albany, 4 p. m. 

Leave Rochester, 9 pm. 

and arrive at Lewiston at 5 a. m. 
in time for boat for To- 
ronto and Hamilton, and 
Trains for Niagara Falls 
and Buiialo. 



N". B. — Passengers up the Lake, by this hne, arrive at Niag- 
ara Falls and Buffalo in time for breakfast and morning boats 
up Lake Erie — having an opportunity to see the Palls. 

Passengers leaving Buffalo at 12 o'clock, noon, and Niagara 
Falls after dinner, can take this line and reach Albany, via 
Oswego, next afternoon, at 2 o'clock, in time for cars and 
steamers for New York, making the trip with dispatch and 
without fatigue, and at less expense than by any other route. 
1* 



10 GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 



3.053. 



^i^gni^n r^ii^ m^ ^o^i^c^\, 



LAKE ONTARIO. 




American Express Line, 

Composed of the new, large, and beautiful Lake Steamers, 

NEW YORK Capt. R. B. CHAPMAK 

BAY STATE Capt.J. H. LEDYARD. 

And the beautiful River Steamers, 

JENNY LIND Capt. L. MOODY . 

BRITISH EMPIRE Capt. D. S. ALLEK 

BRITISH QUE EN Capt. L AFL AMME. 

Expressly adapted to the navigation of the Rapids. 

Will, in connection with the railroads between Cape Vin- 
cent and Albany, at Ogdensburgh with the railroads through 
New England to Boston, and the River Steamers to Montreal, 
form a 

DAILY LINE, SUNDAYS EXCEPTED, BETWEEN 

LEWISTON, TOEONTO, CAPE VINCENT, ALBANY, OGDENS- 
BURGH, BOSTON, AND MONTKEAL, 

As follows; 



GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 



11 



DOWN THE LAKE. 

Leave Lewision 12 m. 

Leave Toronto 3 p.m. 

Leave Cape Vincent 4 a. m. 

Leave Ogdensburgh 8 a. m. 

and arrive in Montreal.. 5 p. m. 
passing the Thousand Is- 
lands and all the Rapids 
by daylight. 



UP THE LAKE. 
Leave Montreal 4 P. M 

Leave Ogdensburgh on ar- 
rival of cars from Boston, 2 p. M, 

Leave Cape Vincent on ar- 
rival of cars from Albany, 6 p. M. 

Leave Toronto 6 a.m. 

and arrive at Lewiston at 9 a. m. 
in time for Boat for Ham- 
ilton, and Trains for Falla 
and Buflalo. 



N. B. — Passengers wishing more variety, in going East from 
Niagara Falls, than is afforded by railroads, and not having 
time to go by way of Montreal, will find the route by the 
American Express Line and railroads between Cape Vincent 
and Albany, agreeable and expeditious, leaving jt^iagara Falls 
at 11 A. M., going via Toronto, and reaching Albany next 
afternoon in time for cars and steamers for New York. 

Both the United States Mail and American Express Lines 
connect at Ogdensburgh with the river steamers down the 
Rapids to Montreal, and cars for Boston, over the Ogdens- 
burgh railroad to Rouse's Point ; from thence, by either the 
Vermont Central or the Rutland and Burlington Raih'oads, 
through the vallies of the Green Mountains. Those for Sara- 
toga, from Ogdensburgh by railroad, or from Monti'eal by 
railroad, take steamer at Rouse's Point for Whitehall ; from 
thence by railroad — or, those wisliing to make the delightful 
trip through Lake George, leave the Champlain boat at Fort 
Ticonderoga. 



12 GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 

THE 

CAPT J. MASON, 
Will, during the season, i-un daily, Sundays excepted, between 

LEWISTON AND HAMILTON, 

COXNECTING WITH BOTH THE 

IlilWB Sf MK iiMIa LIM 

AND 

American €x^xt3s €\nt, 

AS FOLLOWS : 

Leave Hamilton at 7 a. m. 

Arrive at Lewiston at 11| " 

AND 

Leave Lewiston at 1 p. m. 

Arriving at Hamilton at 5| " 

N. B. — Passengers leaving Hamilton for New York by this boat, and 
taking either of the American Lines from Lewiston, reach there at 9 
o'clock next evenmg ; and those leaving Hamilton for Montreal by this 
boat, and taking the American Express Line at Lewiston, reach there at 
5 o'clock, p. M., next afternoon. 

GENERAL OEFICES 

OF THE 

Ontario and St. Lawrence Steamboat Company. 

Montreal Office in M'Gill Street. 

Ogdensburgh Office at Railroad Depot. 

Oswego Principal Office, on the Dock, 

Rochester Office Waverly Hotel Block. 

Niagara Office Cataract Hotel Block. 

Buffalo Office "Western Hotel Block. 

Buffalo Office American Hotel Block. 

At all the above Offices, Tickets can. be Procured. 

JTortliern llatlroalr, 

OFFICE IN CATARACT HOTEL BLOCK, NIAG ARA FALLS. 



GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 13 



10S3. 



MM f IMil MB l,lWISf 01 



IN CONNECTION "WITH THE 

LAKE ONTAHIO STEAMERS 

AND 

Niagara Falls and Buifalo Bailroad, 

ISA 

LINE OF STAGE COACHES, 

Running over the Plank Road from 
LEWISTON TO NIAGARA FALLS: 

Leaving Niagara Falls 8 a. m. 

« « 10|A.M. 

« « 2^P.M, 

Leave Lewiston for Niagara Falls, connecting mth 
tlie cars for Buffalo, immediately upon tlie arrival of the 
Steamers. 



This line of Coaches is conducted in a most able manner ; 
the proprietors having spared no pains or expense in their ar- 
rangements ; and having obtained the services of obliging and 



14 GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 

sober men for drivers, every care and precaution for the com- 
fort and safety of passengers has been thoroughly attended to 

Those intending to take the Lake Ontario or Northern 
Route, have an opportunity of seeing the Devil's Hole, Brock's 
Monument, and the beautiful view (see frontispiece,) from 
the brow of the mountain above Lewiston, in coming down 
at the regular hours of the stages to the boats. But those 
wishing to spend a little more time in visiting these places, as 
well as Queenston Heights, Battle Ground, and the great Sus- 
pension Bridge at Lewiston, than is afforded by the regular 
coaches, (as the boats leave immediately upon the arrival of 
the stages at Lewiston,) can procure them at any hour by ap- 
plying at the Stage Office. 

There are few drives sui-passing this in beauty of scenery, 
or more abundant in historical incidents, — so much so that it 
may almost be called "classic ground," — and pleasure -seek- 
ers should by no means omit enjoying it. 

Parties coming up Lake Ontario on the steamers, and wish- 
ing separate carriages, can secure them by applying to the 
clerk of the boat 



N". B. — Travelers intending to take the Lake Ontario route, 
can have their baggage checked at Buffalo directly for Lewis- 
ton, and vice versa, relieving them from all care of it while al 
the Falls. 



GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 



(DiWH©® AMID STIEASIDrSIi 



JFLuA-TTi :E\,0.AJD. 



SUMMER ARRANGEMENT— 1853. 



Trains will leave Syracuse, 

At 6.10 A. M. from 'New York, Express to Boat for Ogdens- 

burgh. 
At 1.45 p. M. from Albany, Expresses to Boat for Lewiston, &c 
At 5.30 p. M. from Mail and New York Express. 

Trains will leave Oswego, 

At 6.10 A. M. from Boat to morning train from Syracuse. 
At 10 A. M. to connect ■with New York Express. 
At 5.30 p. M. to connect with Mail and Night Express. 



These, also, connect with trains from Syracuse west. Bag- 
gage can be checked from New York, Albany, and all princi- 
pal stations, to and from Oswego. 

Tickets can also be purchased to and from the same pomts 

A. G. WILLIAMS, 

Superintendent, 



GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 



^oh|e, ^^feHoto^ & 6^pe iii^ce^i 



lEl. ..^ X Xj DEL O .^. X3. 



This road lias Rome, (fourteen miles west of XJtica,) 
for its southern, and Cape Vincent, on the St. Law- 
rence, sixty miles above Ogdensburgh, for its northern 
terminus. Length, ninety-seven miles — eighteen inter- 
mediate stations. 

Summer Arrangement for 1853, as follows: 

Passengers leaving ISTew York by the evening trains 
will reach Rome in time for the Morning Mail Train for 
Cape Vincent. 

Passengers lea\ing New York by evening boats 
will reach Rome for the Noon Express Train for Cape 
Vincent. 

Passengers leaving New York by the first morning 
train will reach Rome in time for the Evening Local 
Train for Cape Vincent. 



GREAT NORTUERN ROUTE. l7 



Passeno-ers from Niao-ara Falls, Hamilton, and To- 
ronto, by taking the Morning Mail Train from Cape 
Vincent, will arrive in New York or Boston early the 
same evening. 

Passengers from Kingston, Bay of Quinte, and 
Ogdensburgh, by taking the Noon Express Train at 
Cape Vincent, will reach Albany in time for the 
evening boats for New York. 

Passengers can leave Ogdensburgh by the Ameri- 
can Express Line, at 2 p. m., and reach Cape Vincent 
in time for the evenino- local train Q-oino- east. Or can 
leave at 7 p. m., by the U. S. Mail Line, and reach 
Cape Vincent in time for the morning train for Albany 
and New York. Steamers will ply between Cape 
Vincent and Kingston alternately, three times each 
day, Sundays excepted. 

Steamers from Montreal and Lewiston will touch at 
Cape Vincent twice each day, affording the most 
agreeable and expeditious means of transit to Niag- 
ara Falls, Toronto, Hamilton, Brockville, Prescott, 
Ogdensburgh, and other prominent ports on lake 
Ontario and river St. Lawrence. 

Also, steamers ply constantly between the Cape 
and Belleville, and other port towns on the Bay of 
Quinte. 



18 GREAT NORTHERN' ROUTE. 



M(DIElPn®mM IEMIL.m(DA® 



After Thursday, April 1, 1853' Trains will Run as follows. 

GOING east: 
Mail Train leaves Ogdensburgh 8 a.m. 

Arrives at Rouse's Point 12| p. m. 

Express Train leaves Ogdensburgli 2 p. m. 

Arrives at Rouse's Point 6| p. m. 

GOING WEST. 

Mail Train leaves Rouse's Point 8 a; m. 

Arrives at Ogdensburgli 12.50 p. m. 

Express Train leaves Rouse's Point 2 p. X 

Arrives at Ogdensburgh 6.55 p. m. 



Mail Train Down connects, at Rouse's Point, with 
tlie Mail Train of the Vermont Central Railroad, for 
Boston ; and for New York, via Connecticut Valley 
railroads. Also, with the Rutland and Burlington 
Railroad, at Burlington, for Tro}^, Albany, and New 
York — ^via Hudson River and Harlaem railroads. Con- 
nects, also, with the Passumpsic Riv^er Railroad, and the 
Champlain and St. Lawrence Railroad, for Montreal. 

Express Train Down connects as above. Connects 
with Boston and New York, by the Lake Ontario 
Steamboats, via Burlington and Whitehall. Steam- 
boats will leave the Railroad Wharf on the arrival of 
the Express Train at Rouse's Point, at 7 o'clock, p. m. 



GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 19 

Mail Train Up, connects with the Lake Ontario 
Express Line of Steamboats, which leave Ogdens- 
burgh at 2 o'clock p. m., and arrive at Niagara Falls 
at 8 o'clock the following morning. Also, with lines 
of steamers which touch at all the ports on the British 
shore of Lake Ontario. 

By this route, passengers leaving Montreal in the 
morning train, will be placed on board the Lake On- 
tario steamboats, at the Railroad Wharf at Ogdens- 
burgh, at 1 o'clock p. m., and arrive at Brockville and 
Kingston same afternoon, and at Toronto and Hamil- 
ton the next day. 

Express Train Up, connects with the night boats on 
Lake Ontario, which coast the Lake, and stop at all 
the ports on the American side of the Lake, landing- 
passengers at Lewiston, fur Niagara Falls and BuiStalo. 

Express Freight Train Up, for Express train for 
Boston and New York, to Canada and the West, via 
Ogdensburgh Railroad Line, leaves Rouse's Point at 
6 p. M., and runs through, without stopping at way- 
stations, and arrives at Ogdensburgh at 10 minutes 
past 4 o'clock, next morning. 

Express Freight Train Down, leaves Ogdens- 
burgh for Boston and New York, at 5.45 p. m., and 
arrives at Rouse's Point at 4 o'clock next morning. 
This Express Freight Line connects with Express 
Lines to Boston, via Vermont Central Railroad, and 
by steamboat to Burlington, and thence, via Rutland 
and Burlington Railroad. Also, by steamboats and 



20 GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 



i^ailroads for New York, via Wliiteliall, Troy, and the 
Hudson River. 

This well-appointed railway commences at Ogdens- 
burgh, on the St. Lawi'ence river, at the foot of lake 
navigation, and extends one hmidred and eighteen 
miles, to Rouse's Point, at the foot of the navigation 
of Lake Champlain. 

At this point, the lake is crossed by the celebrated 
brido-e from Rouse's Point to Albero' Island. This 
structure is about three thousand feet in length, and 
is remarkable for the peculiarity' of the swing bridge, 
near the centei-, by means of which, the passage of 
vessels is allowed. The Depot at this point, is one of 
the most commodious and extensive in this state. 

Fort Crawford, at the boundary hne between the 
United States and Canada, is also situated just below 
the bridge. It is nearly completed, and, when fin- 
ished, will doubtless present one of the strongest for- 
tifications in the country. 

Lines of railways and steamboats from Boston, 
New York, and Montreal, connect at the terminus of 
the Ogdensburgh Railroad, at Rouse's Point. 

The White Mountains are now easily reached by the 
Vermont Central, and Passumpsic railways. Stages 
are always in attendance to convey passengers from 
the station on the Passumpsic, to Faybyan's White 
Mountain House. 

CHARLES L. SCHLATTER, 

Chief Engineer and SuperintendenU 



GREAT NORTHERN ROUTE. 21 



5fii)f3 io li-fibeie'rg. 



A few hints to travelers are not deemed inappro- 
priate. 

For the purpose of saving much trouble, and many 
inconveniences, from complying with the different 
regulations of the various lines of conveyances, with 
regard to baggage, we recommend travelers, and par- 
ticularly those for pleasure, to take with them trunks 
of convenient size to withstand the rough handling to 
which they are subjected. 

On all the principal lines of conveyances, baggage 
is usually checked to any point desired, which relieves 
the owner from much anxiety. 

Baggage, while under check, is out of the reach of 
the owner, particularly on railroads, hence the impor- 
tance, for comfort, to have some small traveling bag, 
or satchel— Avhich ti-avelcrs can take with them at all 
times, in staterooms and other places — containing utti- 
cles of clotliing, &c. for daily use. The difficulty of 



22 GREAT NORTHERN" KOUTE. 

getting at baggage, when in cars or baggage rooms, 
for the purpose of taking out such articles as may be 
needed every night, is attended with much trouble, 
and at times not practicable. 

Every one should decide, before arriving at their 
stopping place, the hotel at which they intend to stop, 
and not wait until their arrival. The noise and sohci- 
tations of the agents of the various lines of convey- 
ances, and different public houses, at the railroad 
depots and steamboat landings, are apt to discompose 

even those accustomed to it, and the inexperienced 

* 
ti'aveler is Hable to be misled. 

It is very easy to obtain the names of the public 

houses from directories and papers, or from friends 

who have been over the route — thus avoiding much 

annoyance, and increasing the pleasure of traveling. 

The comforts of home cannot be expected at aU times 

when traveling ; I would therefore advise my traveling 

friends, to leave home with a determination to be 

pleased, and submit to the many trifling annoyances 

which necessarily attend nearly all modes of transit. 

A. cheerful disposition begets a corresponding sphit in 

all whom it may come in contact with ; and the proof 

of this will universally be found, whether it comes in 

contact with steamboat captams, stewards, conductors^ 

or ordinary passengers. 



HAND-BOOK FOR TRAYELEES. 



TO 

Niagara /alk, 3^antrea(, toher, 



11HE route from Niagara Falls to Montreal 
. and Quebec, by way of Lake Ontario and the 
River St. Lawrence, has now become one of the 
favorite summer excursions, so indulged in by all 
classes of the American people that their Cana- 
dian neighbors have named them the "traveling 
nation." 

In the " Guide Books " of the day, this route 
receives a casual mention, like hundreds of others; 
but the peculiar merits of it have not been pointed 
out and enlai-ged upon. 
2 



26 AMERICAN STEAMERS. 

In the first place, there are no steamers in the 
world that rank higher than those belonging to the 

and comprising the two American Lines — the 

running on the American side of Lake Ontario, and the 

running on the Canadian side. These boats are 
constructed in the most substantial manner; the 
utmost pains are taken in the manufticture of their 
engines, and, though "last, not least," the selection 
of the officers in command, the engineers, and all 
concerned in their navigation, is made with the 
strictest reference to their fitness and qualifications for 
the stations they are to hold. As a proof of the care 
and skill with which the American steamers have 
always been conducted on these waters, it can be said 
of them, what perhaps can not be said of any other 
line of steamers or railroad in the world, of equal 
extent — that there has never occurred an accident hy 
which loss of life was occasioned. 



TRACES OF PIONEERS. 



In the second place, no route in the United States 
is more replete with natural interest, or more abund- 
ant in thrilling historical associations. The settlement 
of many of the towns on this route, date back to the 
time of the occupation of the country by the French. 
This was, also, a favorite ''hunting ground" of the 
Indians; and many were the battles fought before 
they would give up possession of the pleasant coun- 
try of the Niagara and St. Lawrence. 

Here may be traced records of the labors of the 
Jesuits, those pioneers of civilization — persevering 
men, who, undaunted by privations and difficulties, 
endeavored to spread their rehgion among the differ- 
ent Indian tribes. The long contest between England 
and France, finally terminating in the conquest of 
Canada, and the total destruction of French sove- 
reignty on this continent, furnished many a battle- 
field on this frontier, and caused it to be again and 
again deluged with blood. The constant struggle 
between these parties, the attempts of each to enlist 
the sympathies and assistance of their Indian neigh- 
bors, and the cruelties enacted by them, would fur- 
nish matter for many a tale. Volumes might be filled 
with these legends and traditionary stories. 

It has been thought advisable to compile a small 
" Guide " for this route exclusively, in order to give 



28 



GUIDE FOR T li E li O U T E. 



travelers a short sketch of the most interesting points. 
The dates have been obtained from the most reliable 
sources, many of them being taken from copies of 
tl^e original documents. It is hoped this unpretend- 
ing volume may serve to amuse those passing over 
the route, as well as to induce others to take the trip. 




CITY OF BUFFALO, 



29 




BUFFALO. 



This is the place from which the *' JSTorthern Tour " 
commences. 

Buffalo was first settled in 1796; in 1798 it con- 
tained eight houses. Except being the place where 
Indian councils were frequently held, nothing of 
interest occurred here till the breaking out of the 
war between this country and Great Britain. 

On the 30th of Dec. 1812, Buffalo and Black 
Rock, both of them flourishing villages, were burned 
by the Britisii and Indians, In Buffalo but two 
buildings, a dwelling house and blacksmith shop, were 
suffered to stand. 



30 



RUINS OF FORT ERIE. 



In 1822 --23 the " Superior " was built, and was 
tlie first steamboat tliat ever passed out of Buffalo 
Creek. 

The first American vessel on Lake Erie was built 
in 1797, near Erie, Pa., and was called the "Wash- 
ington." She navigated this Lake but one season, 
and was then sold to a Canadian, who took her out 
of the water at Chippewa, and placed her -upon truck 
wheels, drawn by oxen, and in this way conveyed 
her over the Portage to Queenstown, where she was 
again launched. She sailed for Kingston, but was 
never heard of after leaving the Niagara River. 

Buffalo is now a city of about 50,000 inhabitants, 
and is truly the " Queen City of the Lakes." 





RUINS OF F li T K It ] 



Almost opposite Buffalo, on the Canadian shore, 
can be seen the ruins of Fort Erie. This Fort was 
taken on the 27th of May 1813, by the Americans 
under Gen. Preston, afterward governor of Virginia, 
then in command of Black Rock. 



BLACK ROCK. 31 

The English obtained possession of it, and it was 
again captured by the Americans on the 3d July 
1814. A short time afterward it wiis besieged by the 
English, under Lieut. General Drummond. After 
a siege of fifty days, General Brown determined to 
make a sortie; this was accordingly done on the 
I7th September. So great was the British loss, that 
the siege was abandoned, and General Drummond 
broke up his camp, and retired to Chippewa. 
" There is a railroad from Buffiilo to Niagara Falls, 
a distance of twenty-two miles — which is usually run 
in an hour — passing a large portion of the w^ay upon 
the bank of the Niagara River. Just after leaving 
Buffab, a military work is passed upon the banks of 
the river Niagara, belonging to the United States, and 
called Fort Porter, in honor of the late General 
Petkr B. Porter. 

Black Rock is a small village situated upon the 
river, and possessing a good harbor. The first steam- 
boat that navigated lake Erie, called " Walk in the 
Water," was built at this place, in 1818. 




32 BURNT SHIP BAY. 

The cars make a short stop at the village of 
ToNA WANDA, situated at the junction of a small stream 
of the same name, with the Niagara. The railroad 
crosses this stream, and also the Erie canal. 

Opposite Tonawanda is Grand Island, about twelve 
miles long. There is a small bay at the foot of it 
called "Burnt Ship Bay," deriving its name from 
the following incident: 

After the capture of Quebec, and the consequent 
cession of this country to the English, the French 
at Schlosser determining that their vessels should 
not fall into the hands of the English, put into this 
bay, and set fire to them. Within the last few 
years persons have succeeded in bringing up from 
the remains of these vessels, cannon-shot, pieces of 
iron, &c. 

Between Tonawanda and the Falls, the railroad 
crosses a small stream called Cayuga Creek. It was 
near this that, in 16 79, La Salle built the "Griffin," 
the vessel which, one hundred and seventy-three 
years ago, first sailed upon the western Lakes. La 
Salle and Father Hennepin embarked in her, and 
set sail upon a voyage of discovery; they, however, 
left her at Mackinac, and the Griffin proceeded on 
her voyage, reached Green Bay, took in a cargo 
of rich furs, started on her return, and was never 
heard of after. 



BATTLE NEAR CHIPPE WA . 



33 



if 




S C 11 L O S S E 1!. 



At SciiLossER, two miles above the Falls, was an 
old French fort; this passed into the hands of the 
EngHsh, and an old chimney is still standing which 
belonp-ed to their mess-house. 

Chippewa, a small Canadian village is directl}> 
opposite this place. Just above the village are the 
Plains of Chippewa. This was the battle giound on 
the 5th of July, 1814, of the Americans under General 
Brown, and the English commanded by Geneial Rial. 
At this place two small streams empty into the 
Niagara; the upper one is called Street's, and the 
lower and larger Chippewa Creek. The English 
were posted behind and below the Chippewa; the 
Americans occupied a position near Street's Creek; 
both streams were crossed by bridges. About noon 
a party of British, militia and Indians, began to 
annoy the American picquets, soon after which 



34 BATTLE OF CHIPPEWA. 

General Porter, with a force of volunteers, militia, 
and friendly Indians of the "Six Nations," attacked 
them. They at first gave way; but hearing that 
General Rial was advancing with a large force, they 
ralHed, and again attacked the Americans. This 
was about four o'clock in the afternoon. " General 
Scott was ordered to their assistance, and was soon 
engaged in conflict witli a superior force. At this 
moment General Porter's command had given way, 
and fled in every direction, notwithstanding his per- 
sonal gallantry and great exertions to stay tlieir flight." 
" The retreat of the volunteers caused the left flank 
of General Scott's brigade to be very much exposed. 
Major Jessup ordered his battalion * to support arms 
and advance,' and so galling a discharge was poured 
upon the enemy as to cause them to retire." * The 
enemy retreated across the Chippewa, hotly pursued 
by General Scott, till within half-musket shot of 
the bridge. The lateness of the hour then induced 
General Brown to order his forces to retire to camp. 
Just below this point, commence the Rapids of 
the Niagara; the descent of the river being fifty 
feet before it reaches the brink of the great foil. 
Visitors sometimes express surprise at the short dis- 
tance the Falls can be heard; this depends altogether 



Brown's OlYicial Dispatch, Niles fitli. 



ARRIVAL AT THE FALLS. 



35 



upon the state of tlie atmosphere. During fine, dry 
weather they are heard but a short distance; but 
just before a storm they can be heard from sixteen 
to eighteen miles. It has passed into a common 
saying in the surrounding country, "We are going 
to have a storm, the Falls roar so loudly." 

We are now arrived at the village of the Falls, 
and after locating ourselves in some one of the many 
comfortable hotels with which this place abounds, 
we prepare for a visit to the 




FALLS OF NIAGARA 



36 NIAGARA FALLS. 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

There is a deo-ree of excitement attendino- a first 
visit to Niagara, tliat perhaps is unequaled by the 
anticipation of any other sight. To feel that you are 
within a few paces of this world-wide wonder, seems 
to inspire the dullest almost to enthusiasm, and this 
feeling is not lessened by the first sight of the Rapids, 
in crossino' the biido'C connectino; the main land to 

DO O 

the Islands. 

The Rapids are far from being the most uninte- 
resting feature of Niagara. Many, however, do not 
appreciate them at first sight; they are so desirous 
of seeing the greater wonder, that they bestow but a 
passing glance upon them. To those w^ho pause, 
and contemplate, there is about them something ex- 
ceedingly beautiful and sublime. You feel yourself 
regarding them in their mad whirls and plunges 
rushing on to the awful brink, as something almost 
human, and seem to have a feeling of pity for the 
fate that awaits them. 

Arriving upon " Bath Island," visitors are requested 
to enter their names in a book, kept for that purpose, 
and ])ay a small fee, which gives them the privilege 




rv?r?rm[fi^^?^^i^^s;5!wr^;7E^^ 









lli,;; Ufi 



ife 



jM 



GOAT ISLAND. 41 



of crossing the bridge at their pleasure during the 
year. A short bridge leads to Goat Island, and 
the first visit is generally made to the American Fall. 

Goat Island has, by the good taste of the owner, 
been left in a state of nature, except so far as clearing 
out the underbrush, and making paths convenient 
for visitors ; and the approach to the Fall is through 
the primitive forest, whose overhanging branches 
almost entirely exclude the sunshine, and this sub- 
dued light adds another charm to the scene. There 
is a path leading to the very brink of the fall, and 
one involuntarily clasps tightly the shrubs and trees 
upon the bank, while endeavoring to catch a glimpse 
of the abyss. Should the day be one of sunshine, 
the rainbow below the Fall is well worth traveling 
scores of miles to behold. LooJdng down upon a 
rainbow is certainly something different from every 
day experience. 

Connected with Goat Island, by a rustic bridge, is 
Luna Island; and it was here that, three years 
since, a most tragical occurrence took place. A 
young man playfully approached a little girl, who 
was standing upon the extreme verge of the island, 
without her perceiving him, and upon his addressing 
her, became so frightened that her foot slipped, and 
she was precipitated into the current He plunged 
in after her, and succeeded in catcliing hold of her 



42 nORSE-SHOE FALL. 

clothes, and endeavored to stay their headlong course by 
seizing a small shrub upon the bank, but the treach- 
erous earth gave way, and the next instant they were 
carried over the Ml Their bodies were found ; that 
of the little girl, on the rocks just below the place 
where they fell, but that of the young man had drifted 
down nearly to the upper Suspension Bridge. 

We now resume our way to the Horse-Shoe Fall. 
This foil, viewed as a single object, is unquestionably 
one of the most sublime things in nature. It is 
impossible, by description, or by penciling, to convey 
an idea to the reader of the effect produced upon 
the beholder. One of the things about Niagara that 
makes a strong impression upon the spectator is the 
motion, and this of course is entirely lost in a drawing. 
This, no doubt, is the reason why the pictures of 
Niagara fall so far short of the reality. There is a 
peculiarity, too, in the color of the water, which is of 
the brightest green, and the upheaving of the snow- 
white foam contrasting so vividly with the emerald 
hue, needs to be seen to be appreciated. 

There is a small tower built upon a ledge of rocks, 
upon the brink of this Fall; it is forty-five feet in 
height, with winding steps to the top. It was built 
in 1833, and is connected by Terrapin Bridge with 
Goat Island. Within the past winter some of thie 
rocks near the tower, and between the tower and 



"M'^r. 




VIEW LOOKING DOWN THE RIVER, 




ENTRANCE TO THE CAVE OF THE WINDS. 



TABLE ROCK. 47 



Island have lalleii a^Yay, and there is a large rock 
that has not fallen, but slipped down several feet, 
where it remains. 

No one having time, should omit crossing the river; 
it has always been said, that nowhere does a person 
realize the height and grandeur of the Falls, as from 
the ferry boat ; and it is from the center of the river 
that they are viewed as a ivliole, and the eye at one 
glance is enabled to rest upon them in their undivided 
grandeur and sublimity. 

The path to the right, near the Biddle Stair-case, 
leads to a magnificent cave, appropriately named, 
when it was first discovered many years since, .^Eolus' 
Cave, or Cave of the Winds. This cave is about 
one hundred and twenty feet across, sixty feet wide, 
and one hundred feet high; it is situated directly 
behind the center fall, which, at the bottom is more 
than one hundred and nine feet wide, and since the 
rocks have been excavated and steps made, visitors 
can pass into the cave, and entii-ely behind the sheet 
of water. Beyond this cave, at the foot of Luna 
Island, there is an open space where persons may 
amuse themselves at leisure upon the rocks over 
which the floods are pouring, and then venture in as 
far as they please behind the whole American fall. 
Visitors can veiy often, when the wind blows down 
tlic river, j)a.ss a considerable distance behind ilio 



48 CAVE OF THE WINDS. 

sheet of water witliin tlie cave, without getthig wet. 
The view presented in the cave, in connection with 
the tremendous and astounding roar of waters, will 
enable visitors to appreciate the following beautiful 
and graphic hnes of Brainard : 

The tlioughts are strange that crowd upon my brain, 
While I look upward to thee. It would seem 
As if God poured thee from his hollow hand, 
And hung his bow upon thy awful front, 
And spoke in that loud voice, which seemed to him 
Who dwelt in Patmos for his Saviour's sake, 
'The sound of many waters ; ' and hath bade 
Thy sound to chronicle the ages back, 
And notch His centuries in the eternal rock. 

Deep calleth unto deep. And what are we. 
That hear the question of the voice sublime ? 
Oh ! what are all the notes that ever nmg 
From -war's vain trumpet, by thy thundering side ? 
Yea, what is all the riot man can make 
In his short life, to thy unceasing roar ? 
And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him 
Who drowned a world, and heaped the waters far 
Above its loftiest mountains ? — a light wave, 
That breaks and whispers of its Maker's might 

A very pleasant way of accomplishing a large 
amount of sight-seeing in two or three hours is, after 
returning from the island, to take one of the many 



TABLE ROCK. 49 

carriages there in waiting, drive down on the Amer- 
ican side, visiting the Devil's Hole, cross the great 
Suspension Bridge at Lewiston, and return on the 
Canada side, visiting Brook's Monument on Queens- 
ton Heights, battle-field at Lundy's Lane, and the 
different points of interest about the Canadian side 
at the Falls, and then cross the river by the Ferry. 
Those who do not desh-e to cross in the boat, can 
cross on the upper Suspension Bridge. 

Table Rock is about a hundred rods above the 
landing. In the spring of 1850 a large portion of it 
broke away, and has changed the appearance of it 
very much. The time of its falling was fortunately 
the dinner hour of the hotels, consequently, but one 
or two persons were on the rock at the time, and 
they saw the danger in time to escape. There are 
portions of it still threatened with the same fate. It 
was upon Table Rock that these beautiful lines of 
Mrs. SiGouRNEY were written: 

Flow on, forever, in thy glorious robe 

Of terror and of beauty. God hath set 

His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud 

Mantles around thy feet ; and he doth give 

Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him 

Eternally— bidding the lip of man 

Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altar pour 

Incense of sweet praise. 
3 



50 LUN1)\'S LANE. 



LUl^DY'SLAJ^E. 

One mile and a half from the Falls is the battle- 
ground of Lundy's Lane. The battle was fought 
on the 25th of July, 1814. The American army, 
under command of Major- General Brown, had taken 
a position at Chippewa. About noon, on that day, 
he received information that the British were landing 
at Lewiston, preparatory to marching to Schlosser, 
and capturing a quantity of baggage and stores there 
deposited. To draw the British from this move, Gen- 
eral Brown decided to put his troops in motion toward 
Queenston. General Scott with the "1st brigade 
Towson's artillery, and all the dragoons and mount- 
ed men," were put in march, to report the movements 
of the enemy. When General Scott reached the 
Falls, he found the English directly in his front, a 
narrow strip of woods only intervening. Supposing 
that a portion of the British had crossed the Niagara, 
what was his astonishment to find that the information 
received by General Brown was incorrect, and that 
here was a large force drawn up in order of battle, 
a force larger than that they had encountered a few 



T II E B A T T L E . 51 



days before on the plains of Chippewa. To pause 
was to be lost, and General Scott's decision was to 
advance without waiting for reinforcements; and for 
an hour these troops sustained the conflict, before 
others could be brought to their relief. The battle 
comrdenced at the close of a warm summer day, and 
continued till near midnight. The enemy's artillery 
occupied a strong position on an eminence, and it was 
found necessary to capture this artillery, and seize 
the height. General Brown said to Colonel Miller, 
" Sir, can you take that battery ? " "I will try," 
was the reply, a phrase now become identified with 
the memory of this gallant soldier. It was at this 
battle that the original of Cooper's "Spy" was 
killed ; a fitting death scene for such a character. 

Returning again to the American side of the Falls, 
carriages are in waiting to convey passengers over a 
plank road to Lewiston, where they are to take pass- 
age on the Lake Ontario Steamers. This road runs 
along the great gorge supposed to have been worn 
by the Falls of Niagara as they receded toward Lake 
Erie. This idea is by no means without weight, as 
there are persons now living near the Falls, who can 
remember when they presented quite a different 
appearance from the present, caused by the breaking 
off of the rociv-^ from the abrading action of water. 



and frost. 



52 MINERAL SPRING. 

A railroad is now about being built, running through 
this gorge, from the Falls to Lewiston, and will, when 
completed, add still more to the pleasure of the trip. 

Two miles below the Falls, the river is crossed by 
a Suspension Bridge. This was built a few years 
since, but was not finished in the style at first designed, 
and presents a striking contrast to the large bridge at 
Lewiston. 



j"^—-^^ 




ailNKRAL SPRING. 



Near the Suspension Bridge is the "Mineral 
Spring," welling up among the rocks, into a stone 
basin. The water is strongly impregnated with sul- 
phur, and contains also lime and magnesia. A chaste 
little temple covers this famous Spring. 

A short distance below, we come to the Whirlpool. 
This is formed by the river making a bend almost at 
right angles, and the current being extremely swift, 
it forms a large whirlpool. Fhghts of steps have been 
placed down the bank, so that the descent can be 



THE WHIRLPOOL. 



63 



made with perfect safety; and although somewhat 
fatiguing, yet one is compensated for the trouble. 
The banks of the river are so high, that, from the top, 
the peculiar effect of the whirl is lost. 




VIEW OP THE WaiRLPOOL. 



64 



DEVIL S HOLE 




devil's hole 



Three miles from the Falls, we come to the Devil's 
Hole. It was at this point, on the 14th September, 
1763, that a party of French and Indians waylaid a 
detachment of English on their return from Schlosser 
to Fort Niagara, then in possession of the English. 
A small stream here crosses the road, and, from the 
fact of its waters having been reddened by the blood 
of the slaughtered, it was called "Bloody Run," 
which name it still retains. The French and Indians 
had laid their plans so well, and so entirely surrounded 
the English, that only two remained to tell the tale. 



BLOODY RUN. 55 



One of these, a Mr. Stedman, residing at Schlosser, 
was on horseback ; the Indians seized the bridle, and 
attempted to lead him into the woods ; Stedman di'ew 
a knife, cut the bridle loose, and, being mounted upon 
a powerful animal, and spurring it to its utmost speed, 
escaped amid a shower of balls. He afterward insti- 
tuted a claim to the possession of the land round 
which he rode on his escape, on pretence of its having 
been a gift to him from the Indians ; they supposing 
him to be endowed mth some supernatural powers, 
from his escaping from them; and he contested the 
matter at law, with the persons who had purchased 
their title from the state, but the question was decided 
against him. 

The other was a lad of the name of Matthews, a 
drummer. Seeing death at the hands of the savages 
inevitable, he made a leap from the bank, and his 
drum-strap catching in a tree, he was saved from 
instant destruction. Extricating himself from the 
branches, he descended to the water, and crept silently 
under cover of the bank to Fort Niagara. He after- 
ward resided on the Canada side of the river, below 
Queenston; carried on the business of chair-making, 
and Hved to relate his strange escape till the good old 
age of ninety. 



56 



LEWTSTON. 




lEWISTON LANDINO. 



LEWISTON. 

Three miles below the Devil's Hole, is the vil- 
lage of Lewiston. It lies upon a beautiful tract 
of country, which extends south from the momitain 
ridge to Lake Ontario, and east and west two hundred 
miles. The view from the top of the mountain, just 
before you begin to descend, looking toward Lewiston, 
is very fine ; the windings of the Niagara, the different 
points jutting into the river, the peculiar hue of the 
water; the forest extending, in many places apparently 
unbroken, to the Lake; Fort Niagara^ and the Cana- 
dian village of Niagara, at the mouth of the river; the 
highlands of Toronto, forty miles distant, but distinctly 
seen on a bright day, their dark tints vividly contrasting 



FORT GREY. 59 



with the deep bkie waters of Ontario — all combine 
to give a character and variety to the scene rarely 
equaled. On the left hand is a point of land on 
which, during the last war, was erected a battery, 
called Fort Grey. Here the French while in posses- 
sion of the country, erected a small railway, to enable 
them to transport their goods up the mountain. It 
was composed of timbers laid firmly upon foundations 
of stone, and the power made use of was capstans 
and windlasses. The timbers have long since mould- 
ered away, but the course of the railway can still be 
ascertained by the stone abutments which remain. 

In Father Hennepin's account of his voyage he 
speaks of the " three mountains " — he must have in- 
cluded first, the high bank of the river, next the pla- 
teau upon which the towers of the Suspension Bridge 
are built, and last, the main ridge or mountain. 

Lewiston, before the building of the Erie Canal, was 
a place of considerable importance. At that time 
large quantities of goods, and salt from Onondaga, 
designed for the western country, were brought in 
vessels to Lewiston, and carried in wagons across the 
Portage to Schlosser, and then re-shipped. Upon the 
completion of the canal, this trade ceased, and the 
village has increased but slowly. 

The Suspension Bridge, at this point, is one of the 

most remarkable works of the day. Spanning the 
3* 



60 SUSFENSION BRIDGE. 

Niagara, it is supported by ten cables — five upon a 
side — resting upon towers of cut stone, the ends 
running into the earth, and secured to anchors drilled 
into the solid rock, six or seven feet. Each cable is 
composed of two hundred and fifty strands of No. 
10 wire, placed parallel and firmly bound together, 
the whole length, by another wire. The distance 
between the points of suspension, or span, is one 
thousand and forty feet; width of road- way, twenty 
feet. This, the longest suspension bridge in the world, 
was erected by a few gentlemen upon each side of the 
river, in 1850, under the superintendence of E. W. 
Serrell, C. E. 

The law authorizing the construction of the work, 
required that, upon its completion, it should be tested 
by one of the Judges of the Supreme Court. After 
he had examined the structure in detail, a number of 
wagons loaded with gTavel and sand, and several car- 
riages, were driven upon the bridge, extending the 
whole length ; but the weight of these made no im- 
pression upon it, so substantially is it built. The loca- 
tion of this bridge is one of the most desirable points 
between the two lakes for a railroad crossing, being 
at the head of navigation from Lake Ontario, and on a 
level with the great plain already spoken of, extending 
from near Oswego westward, through Canada. 



QUEENSTON. 61 



QUEEN"STOIf. 

The village of Queenston, at the Canadian termi- 
nation of the bridge, is celebrated as the scene of one 
of the hardest fights during the last war with Great 
Britain. 

This occurred on the 13th of October, 1812. A 
portion of the American army, commanded by Colonel 
Van Rensselaer, crossed the river early in the morn- 
ing, with the expectation that the militia were to be 
brought over as rapidly as the number of their boats 
would allow. After a severe fight, the Americans 
obtained possession of the English batteries ; but this 
victory, so dearly won, was lost to them from the 
cowardice of the troops remaining on the American 
side of the river, who, at this moment, refused to 
cross, alleging the unconstitutionality of the act. The 
few brave men who held possession of the heights 
were wearied and worn out, and with but little ammu- 
nition remaining, their case seemed almost hopeless. 
A large reinforcement of troops from Fort George now 
arrived under command of General Brock ; yet even 
under these discouraging chcumstances, they resolved 



62 QUEENSTON. 



to make one effort more, and gallantly charged upon 
the advancing troops. The English at first gave way, 
and it was in attempting to rally them that General 
Brock was killed, and his aid, Colonel McDonald, re- 
ceived a mortal wound. They were once more brought 
to the attack, and longer resistance being hopeless, the 
Americans surrendered to General Sheafe, who had 
taken conamand upon the death of General Brock. 

A monument erected to the memory of General 
Brock stands on the Heights. This was commenced 
in the year 1824, and finished in 1826, at which time 
the bodies of General Brock and his aid, Colonel 
McDonald, were brought from Niagara and reinterred 
with military honors. 

In the spring of 1839, a miscreant, who had been 
obliged to leave Canada for his participation in the 
pohtical troubles of 1838, conceived the idea of de- 
molishing this monument, erected to the memory of a 
good man and gallant soldier, and succeeded in plac- 
ing a quantity of powder in the lower part, with a 
slow-match attached. The explosion took place about 
four o'clock in the morning, and the report was like 
that of one of the heaviest pieces of artillery. The 
explosion shattered the monument very much, but 
did not entirely destroy it. The feeling of indignation 
against the author of this outrage was not greater on 
the Canadian than on the American side of the river, 




BBOOK'S MONUMENT. 



LEWISTON. 65 



for General Brock was a man highly esteemed by 
both parties. 

The view on page sixty-three exhibits the monument 
as it now appears, since the attempt to destroy it. 
Some steps have been taken to repair it; but for some 
reason, it has not been accomplished. 

The site of the village of Lewiston was the home of 
the Mohawk Indians, after leaving the banks of the 
river bearing their name. This was once the resi- 
dence of their celebrated chief, Joseph Brant, " Thay- 
endenega," who, with his followers, here formed a 
considerable village. Turner, in his interesting his- 
tory of " The Holland Purchase," gives an account of 
an Episcopal church at this place, wliich will be read 
with interest: "There was a log church, in which 
the Episcopal service was usually read upon Sundays, 
by some one attached to the British garrison at Niag- 
ara; and occasionally a British army chaplain, or a 
missionary, would be present." The Protestant Epis- 
copal Church, " in any history of its origin and pro- 
gress in western New York, may well assume that, 
beyond the garrison at Niagara, Brant's rude log- 
church was the spot where its services were first held. 
Upon a humble log church there could, of course, be 
no belfiy or steeple. The bell that was brought from 
the Mohawk, was hung upon a cross-bar resting in the 
crotch of a tree, and rang by a rope attached." 



66 you:n-gsto\vn. 



Three miles from Lewiston is an Indian village of 
the TuscARORAs. Here is a small church, with a res- 
ident missionary ; the services are quite interesting to 
strangers; the minister delivers his discourse, a sen- 
tence at a time, in English, and their chief translates 
it into the Indian tongue. It is a pleasant diive of six 
miles from the Falls, and is visited by a great number 
of travelers. 

We are now ready to embark in one of the beau- 
tiful American steamers, which are unsurpassed for 
beauty of decoration, comfort, and convenience of 
arrangements, or seaworthy qualities. 

The character of the sceneiy of the Niagara is en- 
tirely changed at Lewiston. The river, after emerging 
from the high banks at the brow of the mountain, 
sweeps on in a majestic and tranquil current to the 
lake, as though wearied with the fierce strife in which 
it had been engaged. The shores lose their wildness, 
but retain their beauty, and are lined on either side, 
with fine farms and beautiful groves. 

The first stopping-place is the village of Youngs- 
TOWN, six miles below Lewiston. This is a small town 
named after its founder, the late Joun Young, Esq. 
Its site was the battle-ground, on the 24th of July, 
1759, of the French and Indians, under the command 
of Mons. D^AuBREY, and the English and Indians, com- 
manded by General Pride aux, and, after his death. 



lAGARA. 



67 



by Sir William Johnson. This battle resulted in the 
capture of Fort Niagara. 

The Canadian village of Niagara is situated oppo- 
site Youngstown; it was formerly called Newark. 
Fort George was taken by the Americans, on the 
29th of May, 1813. On the 10th of December, of 
the same year, the village of Newark was burned by 
the orders of General McClure. The fort was de- 
stroyed at the same time, and was never rebuilt. The 
remains of the old embankments, a short distance 
above the present village, can be distinctly seen from 
the steamer. 

About one mile below these embankments is a fort, 
constructed by the British, called Fort Massasauoua. 
A small garrison is usually stationed there. 



l'^^ 






FORT MAS3ASAUGUA. 



68 FORT NIAGARA. 



FORT NIAGARA, 

On the American side, is one of the most interesting 
points on this frontier. In 1668, La Salle here 
erected some buildings enclosed with palisades, which 
were burned by the Senecas in 1675. To revenge 
this, was one cause of the French expedition, under 
Denonville, into the country of the Senecas. On 
their return, in 1687, they took formal possession, in 
the name of the king of France, of the land, to build 
a fort thereon. In 1688, orders were received by the 
Sieur Desbergeres, the commandant of the fort, from 
the Marquis De Denonville, " to demolish the forti- 
fication, with the exception of the cabins and quar- 
ters," and to take a memorandum " of the condition in 
wliich we leave said quarters which will remain entire, 
to maintain the possession his majesty and the French 
have for a long time had on this continent." Among 
the matters enumerated in this memorandum, was " a 
large, framed, wooden cross, eighteen feet in height," 
and bearing an inscription, of which that upon the 
cross is a facsimile, " which was erected on last 2'ood 



FORT NIAGARA. 



71 



\R.E]GAfzy^^C-<}tMP-CHR§J 




Friday, by all the ofHcers, and solemnly blessed by 
Rev. Father Millet." 

The place seems to have been abandoned by the 
French from this time till 1725, at which time the 
mess-house and other storehouses were built. 

On the 6th of July, 1759, General Pride aux land- 
ed on the lake shore, just below the mouth of the 



72 FORT NIAGARA. 



river, with a large force of English, and a " thousand 
fighting men " of the Indians, and besieged Niagara. 
The battle before alluded to in the sketch of Youngs- 
TOWN, took place on the 24th; and on the 25th, the 
Enghsh took possession of the fortification. They 
retained it until 1796, when it was given up to the 
Americans. It was again taken by the English on 
the night of the 19th December, 1813, and held by 
them till after the peace of 1815. 

Within a few years, this fort has been thoroughly 
repaired, and a new wall constructed. During the 
progTess of these repau's, many relics of former days 
■were found. The entrances to several underground 
passages were discovered, but owing to their ruinous 
state, they were not entered: could this have been 
done, no doubt many interesting discoveries would 
have been made. 

In the dungeons of the mess-house were formerly 
the remains of many instruments of torture, and 
chains firmly fastened in the wall. The walls were 
covered with names scratched upon them, many ap- 
parently with a nail. A French gentleman \'isited 
here a few years since, and in his explorations, found 
among these names that of an ancestor who had mys- 
teriously disappeared during a period of political ex- 
citement in France ; thus proving that these dungeons 
were sometimes used for state prisoners. Could the 



FORT NIAGARA- 73 



walls of the old "mess liouse," which can be seen 
from the boat, be gifted with speech, what strange 
tales they could relate ! In these halls, the polished 
French, and "gentle ladies" had held their revels, 
and mingling with them were the " red warriors," 
the mere recital of some of whose deeds of cruelty 
would cause a shudder. After the occupation by the 
Enghsh, it was a favorite post, and strange and varied 
were the scenes which passed within its walls. The 
traditions and stories connected with this old fort 
would fill volumes. 

There are two hues of American steamers leaving 
Lewiston ddly, — the Express Line at 12 o'clock, 
by which passengers are enabled to see Toronto and 
the other towns upon the Canadian side of lake Ontario, 
and arrive in Montreal the following afternoon, passing 
the Thousand Islands and the Rapids by daylight 




74 TORONTO. 



TORONTO. 

This city, formerly called Little York, is cele- 
brated in history as the place where General Pike 
was killed by the "explosion of a magazine, at the time 
of its capture by the Americans, April 27th, 1813. It 
now contains about twenty-five thousand inhabitants, 
and is one of the most flourishing of her majesty's 
Canadian towns. 

The United States Mail Line, running upon the 
American side, leaves Lewiston at 3 o'clock, p m. 
After leaving Fort Niagara, passengers have a pleas- 
ant sail along the shore of the beautiful Ontario, which 
is interspersed with flourishing villages and fine farms, 
until they arrive at the Genesee river. The river is 
navigable five miles, and the steamboat landing at that 
point is -within the limits of the city of Rochester. 

Tbe lower falls of the Genesee are about half a 
mile above the landing. The Indians called this Gas- 
coucHAGOU ; and it is described in a letter, Avritten in 
1775, as **a river unknown to geographers, and filled 
witb rapids and waterfalls." The Genesee, below the 
Falls, is a quiet stream, shut in by lofty banks, and 



GENESEE RIVER, 



75 



its course being exceedingly winding, adds much to 
its beauty. On the bank of this river, three miles 
below the present city of Rochester, the first Ameri- 
can vessel was built, in 1798. She was of thu'ty tons 
bui'den, and was called the " Jemima." 

After leaving the Genesee, the steamers make no 
stop till they arrive at Oswego, where passengers can 
take the cars in the morning, and arrive at Albany in 
time for the boats and cars for New York and Bos- 
ton, the same afternoon. 




■— --^-£-:. 



Y6 OSWEGO. 



OSWEGO. 

The Indian name of this place was Choueguen. 
The first settlement was made in 1727, by the Eng- 
lish, who built a trading house and fortified it, on the 
west side of the river. This gave great displeasure 
to the French; and in July of the same year, the 
Marquis Beauharnais, Governor General of Canada, 
called upon the English to surrender their fort. This 
modest request was not complied with. 

In 1755, the English built a fort on the east side 
of the river, on the present site of Fort Ontario. 
The first English vessel on this lake was built at 
Choueguen, and launched June 28th, 1755. On the 
11th of August, 1756, the Marquis De Montcalm 
appeared before the place with a large force of French 
and Indians, and after a siege of three days, the Eng- 
Hsh surrendered. The French obtained possession of 
a large amount of property, consisting of arms, pro- 
visions, and several vessels ; also, " three boxes of sil- 
ver, and the military chest containing £18,000." The 
traditions connected with the seizure of this silver and 
money, are no doubt the origin of the schemes of dig- 
ging for treasures so often entered into, and even at 




%mmA 



m 



'* -wm 




OSWEGO- 19 



the present time going on, in the neighborhood of the 
old fort. 

After taking possession of their plunder, the French 
entirely destroyed the fortification, and returned pos- 
session of the land to the Onondaga Indians, " to be 
held by them forever." 

It was rebuilt by the English about the year 1759. 
Just before the American Revolution, they very much 
strengthened this fortification. They retained posses- 
sion of it till 1796, when it was given up to the 
United States. An attack was made by the English 
upon this post, in May, 1814, when it was com- 
manded by Colonel Mitchell, who succeeded in retreat- 
ing m good order, and securing a large portion of his 
stores. The EngHsh landed and destroyed the ord- 
nance, and, taking a quantity of property from the 
village, embarked and retired. 

Fort Ontario has, within a few years, been thor- 
oughly repaired, and is now a voiy strong position. 
May the time never again come when its guns shall 
be needed to repulse an enemy from our shores. 

Oswego is now a flourishing city of about fifteen 
thousand inhabitants. Here is the termination of a 
railroad connecting at Syracuse with the central line 
of railroad to Albany. A new railroad will soon be 
built to Binghampton, and when finished, will make 
Oswego the o-reat coal dejX)t of lake Ontario and 



80 OSWEGO. 



Canada. After the completion of this road, the differ- 
ence in distance between Oswego and New York, 
and Oswego and Philadelphia, will be only about 
twenty miles. Oswego is also the terminus of the 
Oswego canal, connecting at Syracuse with the Erie 
canal. It is a place of great commercial importance, 
there being a large commerce between this port and 
the upper Lakes and Canada, Here, also, are some 
of the finest flouring mills in the world, and immense 
quantities of flour are annually exported. The large 
starch factory, at this place, forwarded specimens of 
its manufacture to the World's Fair, and received a 
premium. 

The steamer leaves Oswego about eight o'clock in 
the morning, and, after a pleasant sail of three hours, 
arrives at the naval post of Sackett's Harbor. 

This is a small town situated on the north-eastern 
shore of lake Ontario, distant from Oswego about 
forty-five miles, and twenty from the river St. Law- 
rence. It was pm-chased and taken possession of by 
Mr. Sackktt, of Jamiaca, L. I., in 1799. In 1801 
only three families had settled here, in consequence 
of a prejudice at that time existing against settlements 
on the lake shore, on account of the supposed un- 
healthiness of so large a body of fresh water. 

This place was the great naval station on the Lake 
d,uring the last war with Great Britain. All the 



dACKETT's HARBOR. 83 

vessels of war, with tlie exception of the Oneida, which 
was built at Oswego in 1808, were built at this port, 
under the superintendence of Henry Eckford, Esq., 
who died a few years since at Constantinople, whither 
he had gone to superintend the building of some 
vessels for the sultan. 

In the ship-house, on the point at the entrance of 
the harbor, is now remaining, in a state of good pres- 
ervation, a ship of the hne of one hundred guns, which 
was commenced in 1814; but peace being declared 
soon after, it was never finished. In thirty days from 
the time the timber was growing in the woods, the 
ship was advanced to its present state, and it was the 
intention of the builder in sixty days more to have 
had her ready for sea. 

Sackett's Harbor was attacked by the English, com- 
manded by Sir George Provost, on the 30th May 
1813. They effected a landing, but after a severe 
fight were driven back to their boats, and retreated, 
leaving many of their wounded. Unfortunately, the 
officers in charge of the naval stores, fearing they 
might fall into the hands of the English, set fire to 
the buildings, and the immensely valuable stores taken 
at " Little York," were consumed. 

There is an extensive military post here, called 
"Madison Barracks." 

In 1816, the first American steamer on this Lake, 



84 STEAMER ONTARIO 

was built here, and called the Ontario. She was about 
one hundred and ten feet k/ng on deck, had a beam 
engine, thirty-four inch cylinder, and four feet stroke. 
It was then considered unsafe to have any structure on 
deck, larger than a small cabin on the quarterdeck for 
the ladies. The Ontario was finally laid by in 1831. 

There is a railroad nearly completed from Sackett's 
Harbor to Pierrepoint Manor, a distance of about 
sixteen miles, and there connecting with the Eome and 
Cape Vincent Railroad. 

The Express Line of Steamers, after leaving Toronto, 
make then- first stop at Cape Vincent, a small village 
delightfully situated at the entrance of the river St 
Lawrence. This, together with the neighboring village 
of Chaumont, was named in honor of one of the early 
settlers, M. Vincent Le Ray de Chaumont. It has 
been quite noted for having been the residence of 
several political adherents of the Emperor Napoleon, 
and a number of articles of his furniture and books 
were once deposited liere, preparatory, it is said, to his 
seeking here an asylum. 

A railroad has just been completed from this place 
to Rome, by which passengers leaving here in the 
morning, can reach New York the same evening. 
This road passes through the pretty village of Brown- 
viLLE, the residence of the late Major General Brown ; 
also the village of Watertown, situated on Black 



firtl!l'''''i!i! 




GRAND ISLAND. 87 



river, and one of the most flourishing and well-built 
towns in the state. 

Lying between Cape Vincent and Kingston, is 
Grand Island, belonging to the English. Two small 
bays put into either side of this island; and at this 
Boint it is contemplated, the coming year, to construct 
a ship canal, a mile and a half long. By this means 
vessels will avoid going round the head of the island, 
and diminish the distance about one half. 

Three miles below Cape Vincent is Carleton Island, 
which is about three miles long and about one mile 
wide. At its head are the ruins of a fortification 
erected by the French at an early day ; these can be 
distinctly seen from the steamer, many of the chim- 
neys remaining quite entire. At this island the 
French sunk two vessels, to prevent their falling into 
the hands of the English. The water being very clear, 
the remains of these can be distinctly seen, filled with 
gravel and stones. 

The United States Line of Steamers, after leaving 
Sackett's Harbor, in crossing over to Kingston, pass 
between the islands lying at the foot of lake Ontario, 
and those lying within the St. Lawrence. 



4* 



83 



KINGSTON. 




KII^GSTON — UPPER CAIl^ADA. 



The Indian name of this place is Cadaracqui. The 
French commenced building a fort here in 1672, 
under the orders of M. De Courcelles, then Gov- 
ernor of Canada. He returned to France the same 
year, and the fort was finished the next spring, under 
the orders of his successor, Count Frontenac, and 
called by his name. The command of it was after- 
ward given to M. De La Salle, who, in 1678, rebuilt 
it with stone. The same year a bark of ten tons was 
launched. In 1688, upon hearing the news of the 
capture of Montreal by the Indians, the garrison set 
fire to the two boats they had built there, and aban- 
doned the fort, Icavinp: matches connected with their 



KINGSTON. 91 



store of powder, to blow up the works. By some 
mismanagement, tMs was not effected, and upon the 
Indians' landing there some time after, they found 
quite a stock of powder remaining. 

This position was again garrisoned by the French, in 
1689, and held by them till 1758, at which time an 
expedition, under command of Colonel Bradstreet, 
embarked from Oswego, and after two days hard 
fighting, he obtained possession of it, and destroyef* 
the fort and vessels, and such articles as he could not 
bring away. The peace of 1762 extinguished the 
French title, and, after its acquisition by the English, 
its name was changed to Kingston. 

This was an important naval station of the English, 
dui'ing the war of 1812, and several ships, of the 
largest class, were built here. The post was can- 
nonaded by the American fleet under Commodore 
Chauncey, in 1812. 

Kingston is now one of the most important towns 
in Canada, and, next to Quebec, is the most strongly 
fortified. 

On Cedar Island is a martello tower ; on a point 
overlooking the town and navy-yard, is a strong forti- 
fication, called Fort Henry, and the harbor is defend- 
ed by several martello towers. After the union of the 
Provinces, this was, for a few years, the seat of gov- 
ernment. The building for the public offices and the 



92 CLAYTON. 



market, is one of the finest on the continent. In front 
of it is a large battery, and a martello tower standing 
on a shoal in the harbor. 

Passengers Lave a fine view of the city and fortifi- 
cations from the steamer, in entering and departing 
from the harbor. On leaving Kingston, we enter 
upon the river St. Lawrence. The Thousand Islands 
commence here, but being quite large, are not numer- 
ous until you approach Clayton. 

This is a small village upon the American side, and 
is noted as the great rafting station of E. G. Merrick, 
Esq., where large ship-timber and staves are formed 
into rafts, and floated down the St. Lawrence to Mon- 
treal and Quebec. These rafts are often passed in de- 
scending the river, and from their requiring many men 
to navigate them, and their erecting upon them httle 
huts for shelter, at a little distance they present the 
appearance of a village. Mr. Merrick has here an 
extensive shipyard, wherein many of the vessels nav- 
igating the Lakes, and several of the fine steamers 
belonging to the American Line, were built. 

This is also the residence of the well known Wm. 
Johnson, who figured in the late Canadian rebellion. 
In consequence of his participation in these troubles, 
he was obliged to seclude himself from the search 
instituted for him by troops under the command of the 
late General Worth. It was during this seclusion 



THOUSAND ISLANDS. 95 

upon one of the islands in the neighborhood, that his 
daughter " Kate " acquired her title of " Queen of the 
Thousand Islands," from her visiting and carrying him 
qrovisions, in her canoe. 

We are now in the midst of the Thousand Islands. 
Persons, on hearing thes^ islands spoken of, often 
make the remark that the number must be exagger- 
ated; but, on the contrary, it is not sufficient, there 
being about fifteen hundred. At the lighthouse, four 
miles below Clayton, eighty can be counted from the 
deck of the steamboat. The following is a descrip- 
tion of the Thousand Islands, written by a Frenchman 
in 1664: "An infinity of little islands are at the 
entrance of the lake, in such great number, and in 
such variety, that the most experienced Iroquois pilots 
sometimes lose themselves there, and experience con- 
siderable difficulty in distinguishing the course to be 
steered in the confusion, and, as it were, the labyrinth 
formed by the islands, which otherwise have notliing 
agreeable beyond their multitude. For these are only 
huge rocks rising out of the water, covered merely 
with moss or a few spruce, or other stunted wood, 
whose roots spring from the clefts of the rocks, wliich 
can supply no other aliment or moisture to these 
barren trees than what the rains furnish them." 

About six miles below Clayton, upon Wells Island, 
there is a small wharf, at which, in the year 1838, the 



96 BROCKVILLE. 

British steamer Sir Robert Peel, while taking in 
wood, was burned by the Canadian Patriots. 

The next port, after leaving Clayton, is Alexandria 
Bay; a romantic Uttle place, built upon a mass of 
rocks. This is a favorite resort for hunters, as well as 
the disciples of Isaak Walton. Three miles below the 
village is a position whence one hundred islands are in 
view at once. 

Our next stop is made at Brockville, on the Cana- 
dian side of the St. Lawrence. This is one of the 
pleasantest villages in Canada, containing about two 
thousand five hundred inhabitants, and was named 
in honor of General Brock, who fell at Queenston 
Heights. During the last war, it was taken by the 
Americans, under the command of Major Forsyth, 
who was afterward killed at La Cole. Directly op- 
posite is the village of Morristown ; the first settlers 
came from Morristown, N. J., and named their new 
home after the one they had left. The river, at this 
point, is a mile and a half wide, and we here take 
leave of the " Thousand Islands." 

The appearance of the soil changes veiy suddenly, 
after lea\ing Morristown, losing its rocky character, 
and becoming susceptible of the highest cultivation. 
The country, on the Canadian side, is much better 
cultivated than on the American, having been settled 
at an earlier day. Many of these fine farms were the 



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TORIES. 



99 



homes of Tories, who left the United States after the 
Revolution. One of these was a brother of Bene- 
dict Arnold ; he died a few years since, and there 
are yet some of his descendants residing in the vi- 
cinity. Twelve miles below Morristown, is the port of 
Ogdensburgh. 







100 OaDENSBtlRGH. 



OGDEKSBURGH. 

The first settlement is believed to have been made 
m 1748. Many of the Iroquois having expressed 
their willingness to embrace Christianity, the Abbe 
Francois Picquet, who was afterward styled the 
"Apostle of the Iroquois," was selected to found a 
mission at this place. Under his instructions, a fort 
was built, called " La Presentation." In October, 
1749, it was attacked by a band of Indians, believed 
to be Mohawks, and although Sieur De Vassau, then 
commanding at Fort Frontenac, had sent a detach- 
ment of troops to the assistance of the Abbe, they 
could not prevent the destruction of two vessels and 
the palisades of the fort. 

This fort was built at the mouth of the Oswegat- 
chie, on the west bank ; and some remains of its walls 
are still discernible. The corner stone is in the 
possession of a gentleman of this place, and has 
111 inscription upon it, of which we present a fac- 
simile, on page 99. 

After the defeat of Montcalm, Abbe Picquet, see- 
ing the fruits of his long and laborious life about to 



FORT LA PRESENTATION. 103 

pass into the hands of the 
English, retired from La 
Presentation, Mnd finally re- 
turned to France, where he 
died in 1781. In the Ab- 
be's journal he describes his 
fort as being situated on 
" the west side of the river 
De La Presentation. The 
east side is more elevated, 
and runs by a gradual in- 
clination into an amphithe- 
atre. A beautiful town 
could hereafter be built 
here." The Abbe's predic- 
tion has been realized, and 
the village of Ogdensburgh 
now stands on this site. 

In 1 81 2, the British made 
an unsuccessful attack upon 
this place. In February, 
1813, another attack was 
made; and after a severe 

conflict, the Americans, under Major Forsyth, re- 
treated to Black Lake, a few miles distant. The 
British plundered the houses, burnt the barracks, and 
vessels, and boats, and attempted to burn the bridge 




104 OGDENSBURtm. 

over the Oswegatchie, but did not succeed, on account 
of its being covered with snow and ice. Among the 
valuable articles lost at this time, were two long twelve 
pounders, won by General Gates, from General Bur- 
GOYNE, at Saratoga. 

Ogdensburgh is now a flourishing town, and has 
increased very rapidly within the last two years. The 
facilities for manufactures are very considerable, and 
within a few years, it will, no doubt, become a large 
manufacturinp' town. Here is the terminus of the 
Northern Railroad, running to Rouse's Point, on Lake 
Champlain, a distance of one hundred and eighteen 
miles, and there connecting with the railroads to Bos- 
ton and Montreal. This is one of the best constructed 
roads in the United States ; and the order in which it 
is kept, and the able manner in which everything con- 
nected with it is conducted, is highly creditable to all 
concerned in its manairement. 



"We here leave the beautiful lake steamers, on 
which we have thus far so delightfully journeyed, and 
take passage on a smaller one, which leaves Ogdens-* 
burgh in the morning, and runs down the river, over 
all the rapids, directly into the city of Montreal. The 
size of these steamers is necessarily governed by the 
locks through which they are obliged to pass on their 



^lillllilllliilili;. 




1 ^ 






THE RAPIDS. 109 



return up the river. Before these canals were con- 
structed, steamers did not run the rapids, as they 
were unable .to ascend ao-ainst the current. The com- 
merce was then carried on by batteaux, (large flat- 
boats,) which, on their return, were towed, by horses, 
around the rapids. 

Parties of pleasure often chartered these boats, 
and, laying in a stock of provisions, choice wines, &c., 
procured a company of boatmen, and proceeded on 
their way down the river. Daylight being necessary 
to run the rapids, w^hen night came, they would go 
on shore, and remain till morning, and then resume 
their journey, sometimes consuming three or four days 
on the trip. The silence of the scene pleasantly 
broken by the songs of the French " voyageurs," who 
enliven their toil by singing ; the grandeur of the rap- 
ids ; the antiquated and foreign air of the villages, 
rendered these excursions, in fine weather, exceeding- 
ly delightful. This passage is now made, in a fine 
steamboat, in nine hours. 

Directly opposite Ogdensburgh is the Canadian 
villao'c of Prescott. Here is a strono- fort called 
after the Duke of Wellington. About a mile below 
the village, is Windmill Point, of which the accom- 
panying vignette gi^ cs a correct view. 

A battle was fought at this point on the 13th of 
November, 1838, between the Canadian "Patriots," 



110 CHIMNEY ISLAND. 

under the command of Von Shultz, a Polish exile, 
and the English troops. The " Patriots " landed on 
the 12th, and succeeded in establishing themselves in 
the Windmill, and the stone houses adjacent. After 
fighting for three or four days, a few made their 
escape, and the rest surrendered. The buildings, of 
which the walls are still standing, were then burnt. 

About four miles distant is the first rapid of the 
St. Lawrence. 

In the midst of this rapid is Chimney Island ; so 
called from the circumstance that several chimneys 
are still standing here which belonged to an old 
French fortification. 

The islands between Ogdensburgh and Montreal, 
present an entirely different appearance from the 
thousand islands, the soil being tillable, and many of 
them highly cultivated. 

Eighteen miles below Ogdensburgh, we pass the 
village of Waddington. Directly in front of it is 
Ogden Island, which is beautiful and finely cultivated. 
Upon it is the residence of J. Ogden, Esq. 

Between Ogdensburgh and Waddington are but 
two rapids, both of which are overcome by the pas- 
senger steamers in ascending the river : freight steam- 
ers pass through the canal. The steamer stops a few 
moments at the little village of Williamsburgh, on the 
Canadian side. Just below this place is Cryseler's 



MASSENA SPRINGS. 113 

Farm, where a battle was fought on the 10th Novem 
ber, 1813, between the English and the Americans 
commanded by General Wilkison, who, at that time, 
was descending the river to attack Montreal ; a plan 
which he afterward abandoned, and for which he was 
severely censured. 

The boat touches at a wharf in the town of Louis- 
ville, about thirty miles below Ogdensburgh, from 
Avhich there are stages to Massena Springs, a distance 
of seven miles. These springs are quite celebrated 
for the cure of dyspeptics and those afflicted with 
cutaneous disorders, and are becoming a place of 
great resort. 

We are now come to the entrance of the Long 
Sault. This is a rapid of nine miles; the river is 
divided, by an island, in the center ; the usual passage 
of the steamers is on the south side. The water in 
this channel is not much broken, but runs with great 
velocity, and the passage is very narrow; it is said, 
that a raft will drift the nine miles in forty minutes. 
The passage on the north of the island is called the 
"Lost Channel," a name given to it from the fact that 
for many years it was believed by the French and 
English boatmen, that if a batteau, or raft accidentally 
drifted into it, it would inevitably be lost Late 
examinations have been made, and steamboats now 



114 ST. REGIS. 



descend this channel in perfect safety; thus giving 
passengers much greater pleasure, as the scenery is 
far finer, and the passage of these rapids much more 
exciting than those of the South Channel. 

Cornwall is a fine town situated at the foot of 
the Long Sault, on the Canadian side. Here vessels 
on their way up the river enter the Cornwall canal, 
and are locked up above the rapids just described, 
coming out into the river about twelve miles above, 

A little below Cornwall, on the American side of 
the river, is the Indian village of St. Regis. 

The 45° of north latitude, the boundary line be- 
tween the United States and Canada, passes through 
the center of this village; and from this point the 
course of the St. Lawrence is entirely within her 
Majesty's dominions. 

St. Regis is an old Indian village, and contains a 
Catholic church, built about the year IVOO. When 
this church was nearly completed, the Indians were 
informed by their priests that a bell was necessary for 
their worship, and they were ordered to collect furs 
sufficient to purchase one; this was done, and the 
money sent to France, the beU bought and shipped for 
Canada. The English and French were then at war, 
and the vessel containing the bell was captured by an 
English cruiser, and taken into Salem. The bell was 
then purchased for a small church at Deerfield, on the 



LAKE ST. FRANCIS. 115 

Connecticut river, the pastor of which was the Rev. 
Mr. Williams. The priest of St. Regis heard of the 
destination of his bell ; and the Governor of Canada 
being about to send an expedition against the New 
England Colonies, the Indians were exhorted to get 
possession of their bell. The ^^llage of Deerfield was 
attacked, forty-seven of the inhabitants were killed, 
and one hundi'ed and twelve taken captive, among 
whom were the pastor and his family. The bell was 
taken down and conveyed to the spot where Burling- 
ton now stands, and there buried till spring, when it 
was taken up and conveyed to St. Regis, where it now 
hangs in their church, the tin roof of which is very 
distinctly seen from the steamer. 

St. Regis was for a number of years the residence 
of the Rev. Eleazer Williams, missionary to the St. 
Regis and other Indians in the vicinity, the reputed 
lost Dauphin of France. 

From St. Regis to Cotcau du Lac, a distance of 
forty miles, the river expands very much, and receives 
the name of Lake St. Francis, and is interspersed 
with many beautiful islands. On the northern side 
of this lake, about midway, is situated the village of 
Lancaster. This is principally a Scotch settlement. 
In front of it, on a small island, stands a large "cairn,'* 
erected in honor of Sir John Colburn. 
6* 



116 COTEAU DU LAC. 



COTEAU DU LAC. 

The CoTEAu is a small village at which the steamer? 
make a short stop. It bears unmistakable evidence of 
its French origin, not only in its name, but in the style 
of its buildings. Travelers discern a great difference 
in the appearance of these villages, and those in the 
Upper Province. The former are clusters of steep- 
roofed houses, with their church in the midst. Along 
the banks of the river, attention is often attracted by 
large crosses of wood, surrounded by a railing; these 
are erected with great solemnity under the supervision 
of their priests, and the ground enclosed is considered 
as consecrated. 

Just below the village are the Coteau Rapids. 
These are much heavier than any yet passed. There 
is but a short space of unbroken water between them 
and the Cedars. 

This is a little village, possessing the same marks of 
French origin as the Coteau. It was in the Kapids 
of the Cedars that a detachment of three hundred 
men, belonging to General Amherst's brigade, on 
their way to attack Montreal, were lost. This was 



MILITARY WORKS. 119 

owing to tlie ignorance and unskillfulness of theii 
pilots; and many of tlie bodies floated past Mon- 
treal, giving the French the first intelligence of their 
being on the river. 

During the Eevolution, the Americans constructed 
some military works at this point, and it was garri- 
soned by about five hundred continental troops, under 
the command of Colonel Bedell. An expedition 
was fitted out from Oswegatchie, under the command 
of Captain Forster, and attended by a large number 
of Indians, led by Thayendenega, to capture this 
place. Colonel Bedell, hearing of their approach, 
went to Montreal to demand assistance of General 
Arnold, who was then in command, leaving the fort 
at the Cedars in the charge of Major Butterfield. 
Two days after, the enemy made their appearance 
and commenced an attack. Not having any artillery, 
they made but little impression upon the works ; and 
at the end of two days, only one man was wounded ; 
"yet, Major Butterfield, intimidated by the threat, 
that if any Indians were killed, it would be out of the 
power of Captain Forster to restrain them from a 
massacre, capitulated. The next day. Major Sher- 
BUNE, who had been dispatched by General Arnold, 
to the assistance of the Americans, approached, with- 
out hearing that Major Butterfield had surrendered. 
When within four miles of the Cedars, he was attacked 



120 THE RAPIDS. 



by a party of Indians, and, after a fight of an hour, 
he also surrendered. 

Arnold, hearing of these misfortunes, marched 
against the enemy, then at Vaudriel, intending to 
attack them, and recover the American prisoners. 
" When preparing for the engagement, he received a 
flag, accompanied by Major Sherbune, giving him the 
most positive assurances that if he made an attack, it 
would be out of the power of Captain Forster to 
prevent the savages, according to their custom, from 
disincumbering themselves of their prisoners, by put- 
ting them all to death. Under the influence of this 
threat, Arnold desisted from his purpose," and suc- 
ceeded in effecting an exchange of prisoners, on the 
Americans agreeing to return immediately to their 
homes. 

A passage through this series of rapids is very ex- 
citing, even to those who have been over them many 
times. There is a pecuHar motion to the vessel, in 
descending them, and you can feel her settling down, 
as she glides from one ledge to another. On passing 
the rapids of the Split Rock, a person unacquainted 
with the navigation of these rapids, will almost invol- 
untarily hold his breath, till this ledge of rocks, which, 
from the shallowness and transparency of the water, 
is distinctly seen from the deck of the steamer, is 
passed; she seems to be running directly upon it, and 




i i I' 



r^ilLiililiiiiiiiiiilU i^iiii'Miiil iiii:i:|; 



i 



4iii i 3 iii 



THE RAPIDS. 123 



you feel certain that slie will strike; but a skillful 
hand is at the helro, — an instant more, and it is passed 
in safety. 

Beauharnais is a small villaQ;e at the foot of the 
cascades, on the south bank of the river. Vessels 
here enter the Beauharnais Canal, which, in the dis- 
tance of fourteen miles, takes them around the rapids 
of the Cascades, Cedars, and Coteau, into lake St. 
Francis. On the north bank, a branch of the Ottawa 
enters the St. Lawrence. The water of this river is 
very dark colored, and does not readily mix with that 
of the St. Lawrence, which is very pure, and the line 
of distinction between them can be traced for a con- 
siderable distance. The river again widens into a 
lake, called St. Louis, and a view is now had of 
Montreal mountain, nearly thirty miles distant 

In passing through this lake, on the right is !N'un's 
Island, which is beautifully cultivated, and belongs to 
the Grey l^unnery, at Montreal. It is easily distin- 
guished by a long mound, having the appearance of 
being artificial, upon the south end of which, an im- 
mense cross is erected. There are many islands in 
the vicinity of Montreal, belonging to the nunneries, 
and from which they derive large revenues. After 
passing lake St. Louis, we arrive at the little village of 
Lachine. 

The origin of this name is said to have been from 



124 CAUGHNAWAGA. 

the following incident: When the French first as- 
cended the river, and arrived at this place, the open 
expanse of lake St. Louis being before them, led them 
to believe that the way to China was open to them, 
and the exclamation accordingly was, " La Chine ! la 
Chine ! " At this place, M. De La Salle once estab- 
lished himself as a fur-trader. 

From this point is a railroad running to Montreal, a 
distance of nine miles. This is also the terminus of 
the Lachine Canal, by which vessels avoid the Lachine 
rapids. 

Here, too, is the residence of Sir George Simpson, 
Governor of the " Hudson Bay Company," and dis- 
tinguished as a traveler, by his "voyage round the^ 
world." 

On the south bank of the river, just before en- 
tering the Lachine rapids, is the Indian village of 
Caughnawaga. 

This town was built in 1671, by Indians, who had 
been converted by the Jesuits, and were called "pray- 
ing Indians," or Caughnawagas. These Indians, du- 
ring the French wars, were often engaged in predatory 
incursions upon their neighbors in the New England 
provinces. On one of these excursions, they took 
possession of a church-bell, and carried it on poles, on 
their shoulders, through the woods, to their village • 
and this bell now hangs in their church. 



LA PRAIRIE. 



125 



The Lachine is one of the most interesting of the 
rapids. The water is very turbulent, and the current 
very swift. After passing this rapid, we see, on the 
left, another island, belonging to the nuns. We also 
pass the little village of La Prairie. From this part 
of the river, a fine view is had of the mountain and 
city of Montreal. 




126 MONTREAL. 



MON"TREAL. 

When Jacques C artier first ascended the St. Law- 
rence, in 1535, he found, d,t tliis place, a large Indian 
village, called Hochelaga. 

In 1540, Francis de la Roque and Seio-neur 

o 

De Roberville, visited this place with an expedition, 
intending to make a permanent settlement; their ex- 
pectations not being realized, at the end of the year 
they returned to France. There now seems to have 
been a lapse of over fifty years in the French discov- 
eries in Canada. 

Champlain visited the country in 1603. In 1640, 
the converted Indians began to mahe Montreal their 
home; and in 1647, a grand mass and festival was 
celebrated. 

In consequence of a quarrel between the French 
and some of the Indian tribes, a large body of the 
Five Nations, on the 26th of July, 1688, landed on 
the island of Montreal, and, while the French imag- 
ined themselves in perfect security, burnt their houses, 
and massacred men, women, and children. In a history 
of the province of New York, it is stated, that "a thou- 
sand French were slain in this invasion, and twenty-six 




*r 



. t 



4^ 



[v5 



V 




MONTREAL. 



129 



were carried iiito captivity and burned alive. Many 
more were made prisoners' in another attack, in Octo- 
ber. Only three of the confederate Indians were lost 
in all this scene of misery and desolation." 

In 1696, Count Frontenac left Montreal, with a 
force of one thousand French and two thousand In- 
dians, on an expedition against the Onondagas. He 
succeeded in destroying many of their villages, and 
then returned to Montreal. 

This was the headquarters whence issued so many 
parties of French and Indians, who continued their 
attacks upon the English, till the conquest of Canada. 
After the peace of 1763, it was surrendered to the 
English, and French sovereignty ceased upon this con- 
tinent. In 1775, Montreal was surrendered to the 
Americans, under General Montgomery, and the 
English general, Carleton, retreated to Quebec. 

Montreal being the headquarters of the fur-traders, 
here these adventurous navigators took in a cargo of 
goods suited to the Indian taste, and set forth on 
their voyage up the Ottawa, into the midst of a 
wilderness. The idea of Moore's well known "Can- 
adian Boat Song " originated from the fact of these 
parties stopping at St. Ann's, the last church on the 
island, and imploring the protection of their tutelar 
saint. These expeditions would be absent a year, 
sometimes two, and even three years, and would 



130 FUR COMPANY. 



return freighted with the rich furs of the west. In 
the " palmy days " of the Fur Company, the return 
of these parties to Montreal presented an exciting 
scene. Pleasure and revelry took the place of labor 
and watchfulness ; and, in a short time, the fruits of 
their toil being dissipated, they were ready again to 
go forth upon an expedition so fraught with danger, 
difficulty, and privations. 

Mr. McTavish, an influential member of this com- 
pany, was the person to whom the httle colony of 
Astoria — founded by John Jacob Astor — on the 
banks of the Columbia, was surrendered by the Amer- 
icans, in 1812. His former residence, now entirely 
deserted, and enjoying the reputation of a " haunted 
house," is situated on the road running around the 
mountain ; and his grave is in the woods, a short dis- 
tance up the mountain, and a small monument is there 
erected to his memory. 

The quays of Montreal are the finest on this conti- 
nent, and equal to any in the old world; they are 
constructed of sohd masonry in cut stone, and are 
about a mile in length, 

A few years ago, Montreal was deficient in hotels, 
and visitors found much inconvenience from this cause. 
This has been thoroughly remedied, and the city now 
abounds in fine ones, where every comfort can be found. 

No one should omit a ride round the mountain; 



MONTREAL. 131 



this is over a fine McAdamized road, and passes many 
delightful residences. From the mountain, the view 
of the city of Montreal, with its immense cathedral, 
the St. Lawrence with its islands, and the distant 
moimtain scenery, form a picture worthy the pencil 
of a true artist. 

The streets in the old part of Montreal are very 
narrow, and, even in some of the principal ones, the 
stranger finds himself wondering when he shall get 
out of the lanes and by-ways, and emerge into the 
street. The houses being very high, seem to render 
them still more narrow. The new part of the city 
has been laid out in the modern style, with wide 
streets, and is well built. 

The Cathedral of Montreal is an immense building, 
capable of holding fifteen thousand persons. It is 
built of granite, and the exterior is very imposing; 
but the interior is not finished in a corresponding 
style, the pillars being imitation marble. 

Near the cathedral is the "Black Nunnery." Visitors 
are not allowed to go farther than the Hospital ; they 
nowever can obtain admission into the "Grey Nunnery," 
ntuated a few streets nearer the river ; this is inter- 
fstino' to a strano-er. No reo'ular charo-e is made for 

O o o o 

showing visitors through the estabhshment ; but it is 
expected they will purchase some of the little fancy 
articles made by the inmates. 



132 nelson's MONUMENT. 

The Bishop's Church, at the distance of a short ride 
from the cathedral, is a handsome edifice, and contains 
many paintings. The convent of the Sisters of Char- 
ity is at this place, and visitors, except on certain days, 
are allowed an entrance. 

A monument, erected to the memory of Lord Nel- 
son, stands on Notre Dame street, on the square 
opposite the entrance to the Place d' Amies. 

Opposite the lower part of the city is the island of 
St. Helen ;' the upper end of tliis is crowned by a fine 
grove of forest trees, and on the lower end is a strong- 
fortification, commanding the passage of the river. 

The Quebec steamers usually leave in the evening 
making the passage each way in the night. They, 
however, leave each end of the route so early, that 
passengers have an opportunity of seeing the most 
interesting points on the river. 

A small rapid, called St. Marys, is just below St 
Helen's island, which, though it occasions no incon- 
venience to steamers, often retards sail vessels in 
ascending. 

William Henry, or Sorel, forty-five miles below 
Montreal, stands on the site of an old fort, built in 
1665. In May, 1776, the fort at this place was taken 
and occupied by a body of Americans, on their retreat 
from Quebec, after the death of Montgomery. 

Lake St. Peter is fift\' miles l)elow Montreal. The 



THREE RIVERS. 



133 



river here expands to twelve or fifteen miles in breadth, 
for twenty-five miles. 

Three Rivers, half way between Montreal and 
Quebec, is situated on the north side of the St. Law- 
rence, This is an old town, having been erected by 
the French in 1618. 




134 QUEBEC. 



Q U E B E 0. 

In 1535, Cartier took solemn possession of the 
country at this point, by erecting a cross, decorated 
with a sliield bearing the lilies of France, whither he 
then sailed. In 1541, he returned, and built a fort 
on the present site of Quebec. 

The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel Cham- 
plain, in 1608. In 1622, the population was reduced 
to fifty souls. At this time, a company was formed 
in the mother country, called the " Company of New 
France."^ The object of this company was the con- 
version of the Indians, by the aid of the Jesuits ; the 
extension of the fur trade ; and to find a short passage 
to China and the East Indies, through the rivers and 
lakes of New France. The king presented this com- 
pany with two ships, on condition that the value of 
them should be refunded, if, within ten years, fifteen 
hundred French inhabitants were not transported to 
the country. For the first few years, this colony suf- 
fered severely from the hostility of the Iroquois. 

In 1629, Sir David Keith, in the employ of the 
British crown, sailed up the St. Lawrence, and made 
the conquest of Quebec. The treaty of St. Germain, 



tfSiK-^tSiS:.^,^-^ ; ,ai?r!?;?5>^s " ' ' 1 i'ltrtSSJIAvi 




1 ( 



, ^^ 



QUEBEC. 137 



concluded soon after, restored to France, Quebec and 
her other American possessions. 

From this time till 1697, history furnishes us with 
records of Indian lights, and barbarities perpetrated 
upon each other by the French and English. The 
Indians, with their usual policy, determined to take 
part permanently with neither party, and accordingly 
extended their aid to one or the other, as caprice or 
inclination dictated. 

In June, 1759, tlie English army, under General 
Wolfe, landed upon the island of Orleans. He then 
took possession of Point Levi, on the southern bank 
of the St. Lawrence, and erected several heavy bat- 
teries, bearing directly upon the town. By these, sev- 
eral houses were burned : but not much impression 
was made upon the fortifications, they being so strong, 
and the distance so great. General Wolfe became 
sensible that there were no hopes of success, imless 
he could erect batteries on the north shore of the 
river. He attempted to capture the entrenchments 
at MoNTMORENCi, and succeeded in landing his troops 
under cover of the fire from his ships, but was gal- 
lantly repulsed by the French. He then determined 
to carry the Heights of Abraham. 

On the 12th of September, the ships sailed nine 
miles up the river to Cape Rouge ; this deceived the 
French, and a large detachment was sent up llie river 



138 QUEBEC. 



to prevent their landing. In the mean time, the ships 
had dropped down the river to Wolfe's Cove, and at 
four o'clock in the morning, the troops began to land. 

The Marquis De Montcalm, hearing the English 
had landed on the Plains of Abraham, and believing 
it impossible to be accomphshed by the whole army, 
supposed it was merely a stratagem to draw Mm from 
his strong position at Montmorenci. Finding that 
i^ was really the case, he crossed the St. Charles, 
and formed his army for battle. There were about 
fifteen hundred miUtia and Indians sheltered in some 
bushes, who poured a destructive fire upon the Eng- 
lish. " Montcalm had taken post on the left of the 
French army, and Wolfe upon the right of the Eng- 
lish, so that the two generals met at the head of their 
respective troops." 

Soon after the commencement of the battle, Wolfe 
received a wound in the wrist; this he concealed. 
Shortly after, he received another in the gToin ; this 
too was concealed, and he was advancing at the head 
of his grenadiers when a third bullet entered his 
breast. "Though expiring, it was with reluctance 
he permitted himself to be conveyed into the rear, 
where, careless of himself, he discovered in the ago- 
nies of death, the most anxious solicitude concerning 
the fate of the day. Being told that the enemy was 
visibly broken, he reclined his head, from extreme 



DEATH OF WOLFE. 139 



fointness, on the arm of an officer standing near him, 
but was soon aroused with the distant sound of " They 
fly, they fly." " Who fly ? " asked the dying hero. 
On being answered, the French, " Then," said he, " I 
depart content," and almost immediately expired. 

Less fortunate, but not less gloriously, expired the 
gallant Montcalm. About the same time he received 
a wound, and on being told that it was mortal, and 
that but a few hours of life remained to him, he 
expressed the greatest satisfaction, and exclaimed, " So 
much the better! I shall not live to see the surrender 
of Quebec." 

After the loss of General Wolfe, the battle was 
continued by General Monckton; and, upon his be- 
ing wounded, the command devolved upon General 
TowNSHEND. The French soon after were driven 
fiom the ground. 

General Townshend, after the battle, employed 
himself in making preparations for the siege of Quebec, 
but, before his batteries were opened, the town capit- 
ulated. A force of five thousand men, under General 
Murray, were left to garrison the fort, and the fleet 
sailed out of the St. Lawrence. 

Li 1760, the French made preparations to besiege 
Quebec, and a battle had already taken place, when a 
large English fleet arrived, and the French retreated 
to Montreal. Thus ended this eventful war. 



140 ATTACK ON QUEBEC. 

The body of General Wolfe was taken to England. 
That of the Marquis Montcalm was interred in the 
chapel ill the Ursuhne Convent. A simple monument 
was erected bearing the following inscription : 

nONNEUR A MONTCALM. 
LE DESTEV EN LOT DEROBANT LA VICTOIRE 
LA RECOMPENSE PAR tJNE MORT GLORIEOSE. 

A monument is erected to the memory of both 
these heroes, in a pleasant place called Governor's 
Garden. 

In 1775, General Washington hearing that a large 
portion of the English army was concentrated about 
Montreal, projected an attack against Quebec; and in 
order to accomplish this he determined to send a 
body of men to reinforce General Montgomery, then 
at Montreal. Their route was to ascend the Kenebec, 
and strike across to the Dead river, and follow this 
stream till they could again cross the forest and reach 
the headwaters of the Chaudiere, emptying into the 
St. Lawrence. So great were the delays in starting, 
owing to the derangements in the army, that they 
did not commence their march till the middle of 
September. The command of the troops was given 
to General Arnold. The impediments were such 
that he did not reach Point Le^i till the 9th of 



ATTACK ON QUEBEC. 141 

November. The town was almost without a garrison, 
and the inhabitants would as soon have expected 
to see an army descend from the clouds, as to emerge 
from the wilderness through which they had just made 
their way. Could Arnold have immediately crossed 
the St. Lawrence he would have easily obtained pos- 
session of the town, but a violent storm was prevailing, 
and before this abated, and a sufficient number of 
boats could be collected, the ganison was strongly 
reinforced. 

On the 12th the wind moderated and Arnold 
embarked, and after infinite difficulty and danger, 
landed with his little araiy about a mile and a half 
above where Wolfe had disembarked. Finding the 
clififs at this point impracticable, he marched down the 
river to Wolfe's Cove. Ascending the precipice up 
which, sixteen years before, Wolfe and his brave 
followers had clambered, he formed his small corps on 
the Heights of Abraham. 

Arnold proposed to march immediately against 
Quebec, in hopes of finding some one of the gates 
open; this opinion was overruled, the expectation of 
finding the garrison off its guard being deemed too 
improbable to be calculated upon. It was afterward 
found that the gate called St. Johns was very slightly 
guarded, and could easily have been entered. Arnold 
concluded at last, to retire to Point au Trembles, 



Ii2 DEATH OF MONTGOMERY. 



and await the arrival of Montgomery. The latter 
having clothed his almost naked troops in Montreal, 
and procured clothes for those in Arnold's command, 
garrisoned the place, and proceeded to Point au Trem- 
bles, and joining Arnold, marched to Quebec. 

It was now in the depth of a Canadian winter, and 
the hardships which the troops were obliged to un- 
dergo, were excessive ; but they were supported with 
the utmost patience and firmness. 

General Montgomery determined to make an at- 
tack; and accordingly, on the 31st of December, the 
signal was given, and the troops moved forward to 
the assault. Montgomery advanced, at the head of 
the New York troops, along the St. Lawrence, under 
Cape Diamond. Along this narrow path the Amer- 
icans pressed forward until they reached a block- 
house and picket. The general, with his own hands, 
assisted in cutting down and pulling up the pickets, 
to open a passage for his troops. He now found it 
absolutely necessary to make a halt, and collect a force 
with which he might venture to proceed. Having 
reassembled about two hundred men, he advanced 
boldly and rapidly at their head to force the barrier 
One or two persons had now returned to the deserted 
battery, and one of them, seizing a match, discharged 
one of the guns when the American force was distant 
about forty paces. This single and accidental fire 



TTACK ON QUEBEC. 143 



was a fatal one. General Montgomery, Captains 
McPherson and Cheeseman, the former the aid to 
the general, and his orderly sergeant, were killed on 
the spot. The loss of their general, discouraged the 
troops, and they precipitately retired from the action. 

The division of Arnold moved along the street St 
Roque. The path was so narrow, from the works of 
the enemy, and the blocks of ice thrown from the St. 
Charles, that the two pieces of artillery in front were 
capable of raking the whole ground. As Arnold 
approached the barrier, he received a musket ball in 
the leg, which shattered the bone, and he was carried 
to the hospital. Colonel Morgan then rushed for- 
ward, at the head of his company, and endeavored to 
capture the barrier. After a severe contest he found 
they were unable to cope with the numbers of the 
enemy, and they surrendered themselves prisoners. 

The Americans, under Arnold, retured about three 
miles from the city, and there remained through the 
winter. In the spring, Arnold retired to Montreal, 
and General Thomas took the command. In May a 
British fleet arrived, and General Thomas retreated 
up the river, leaving many of his sick to fall into the 
hands of the enemy. Thus ended this, as it has since 
proved, last attempt to capture Quebec. 

This city is very interesting to a stranger ; it is the 
only walled city in the Canadas, and one feels on 



144 FALL OF MONTMORENCI. 

passing the gateways, and being shut in by the pon- 
derous gates, as though he were entering some sort 
of prison. There are five of these gates. 

Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is 
three hundred and forty-five feet in height, and derives 
its name from the quantity of crystals mixed with the 
granite below its surface. The fortress includes the 
whole space on the cape. 

Above the spot where General Montgomery was 
killed, is now the inclined plane, running to the top of 
the bank ; it is five hundred feet long, and is used by 
the government to convey stores, and other articles 
of great weight, to the fortress. Strangers are allowed 
to enter this fortress, by procuring tickets from the 
proper authorities. 

A ride to the Plains of Abraham is one of the 
most interesting visits about this celebrated city; a 
rock is there pointed out, as the spot where General 
Wolfe expired. There are four martello towers, 
forty feet in height, standing upon the plain, about 
half a mile in advance of the other fortifications. 

Seven miles below Quebec is the Fall of Montmo- 
RENci. The road is very pleasant, passing through 
the French village of Beaufort. Those who expect 
to see a second Niagara, will be very much disap- 
pointed. The stream descends, in silvery threads, 
over 1 precipice two hundred and forty feet in height, 



CASTLE ST. LOUIS. 145 

and, in connection with the surrounding scenery, is 
extremely picturesque and beautiful, but inspires none 
of the awe felt at Niagara, 

The French (Catholic) Church is a spacious stone 
building, and the interior is decorated with some fine 
paintings. Since the destruction of the Convent at 
Charlestown, Mass., Americans are not allowed en- 
trance to the Ursuline Convent. It is the more to be 
regretted, from the fact that the grave of Montcalm 
is in their chapel. 

Castle St. Louis, probably the first public building 
in Quebec, the corner stone of which was laid by 
Champlain, on the 6th of May, 1624, was destroyed 
by fire on the 23d of January, 1834. By the orders 
of Lord Durham, the site of this castle was cleared of 
the ruins that covered it, leveled, and floored with 
wood, and an iron railing placed on the edge of the 
precipice, making a very delightful promenade. The 
view from it commands the lower town, the St. Law- 
rence as far down as the island of Orleans, the harbor 
with its ships, and Point Levi on the opposite side of 
the river. 



146 ROUTE FROM QUEBEC. 



ROUTE FROM QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY. 

This route has, until a year or two since, been but 
little known to the public ; it has now become a very- 
favorite excursion, and steamers run regularly from 
Montreal and Quebec, making the trip in about four 
days. 

The scenery upon the St. Lawrence below Quebec 
is very much diversified. Upon one side of the St. 
Lawrence is the pretty village of St. Levi, on the 
other Charlesbourgh, Lorette, St. Ambroise, the 
St. Charles river, and the long line of houses com- 
prising the village of Beauport. From the river, 
you have a fine view of the Falls of Montmorenci, 
falling from a hight of two hundred and forty feet 
into the river St. Lawrence. 

The Island of Orleans is next passed, upon the 
left, the South Channel being the one most frequented 
by ships. When Cartier first ascended the river, he 
anchored off this Island; and from the beauty and 
variety of its vegetation, and pai-ticularly from the 
profusion of its grape vines, he called it the Isle of 



GROSSE ISLE. 147 



Bacchus. There are many beautiful situations upon 
this Island, tlie residences of the Seigneurs, etc. 
Upon the main land are seen the villages of St. Mi- 
chael, St. Thomas, and Beaumont. Very shortly the 
traveler sees Cape Tourmente, raising itself eighteen 
hundred feet above the river; and following this are 
other promontories on the northern shore. 

Grosse Isle is soon passed, upon the left, and with 
its white-washed sheds for the emigrants, its little 
church, and its forests of evergreens, presents a pretty 
picture. This is the quarantine station for the port of 
Quebec, and it was here that the ship fever committed 
such ravages among the emigrants, during the seasons 
of 1848 and '49. 

We next come to Crane Island. This is a beauti- 
ful, fertile island, and upon the northern end is seen 
the pleasant residence of the Seigneur. "The Pil- 
lars," fifty-five miles from Quebec, are a collection of 
rocky islets, upon one of which stands a hght-house. 
The view here is very beautiful; the width of the 
river below looks like the opening of the ocean, and 
the shores are studded with little villages, their white 
houses a'litterino- in the sunlight, while the dark moun- 
tains in the distance form a magnificent back-ground. 

Isle aux Coudres is on the north shore, sixty-five 
miles from Quebec. Tradition asserts that Cartier 



148 C AGO UNA. 



anchored at this island, and gave it its name from the 
great quantities of filberts or hazel-nuts he found there. 

Murray Bay, eighty miles from Quebec, is a pretty 
village upon the north shore, situated upon a small 
stream emptying into the St. Lawrence. This is now 
a favorite resort of the Canadians, who come hither 
during the warm weather for the purpose of bathing 
in the salt water. 

River du Loup, on the southern shore, is also much 
resorted to by health and pleasure-seekers. Cacouna 
is on the southern shore, a few miles below River du 
Loup. This little village is crowded to excess during 
tlie summer, by the inhabitants of Montreal and Que- 
bec, who come to enjoy the salt water bathing, and 
the fine hunting and fishing in the vicinity. The ac- 
commodations at all these points are to be considerably 
enlarged, thus rendering a stay there much more 
pleasant. Cacouna is nearly opposite the mouth of 
the Sag UE NAY, and the St. Lawrence is here twenty 
nailes wide. The steamers remain at Cacouna over 
night, leaving early in the morning for the Saguenay; 
making the trip up and down that river during the 
daylight. 

The Saguenay, at its mouth, is about one mile in 
width. Directly at the entrance, on the north-west 
shore, is the village of Tadousac ; this is one of the 
oldest settlements in America, and it is said that here 



POINT ETERNITY. 151 

was the first house of stone and mortar erected in 
Canada. Here was, at one time, the missionary sta- 
tion and residence of Father Marquette, the explorer 
of the Mississippi. The old Catholic chapel is still 
standing where these services were held. Tadousac 
was formerly an important trading post of the Hudson 
Bay Company, but this has now been removed to 
Chicoutimi. On the southern shore is the establish- 
ment of the Riviere du Canard. 

Half a mile above Tadousac is the little village of 
"L'anse a L'eau," where there is a lumber estab- 
lishment. The steamers usually stop for a short time 
at this place. 

" Tete du Boule " is a round mountain peak, rising 
about one thousand feet above the river, and distant 
a little over a mile from the mouth. 

St. Louis Island is distant eighteen miles from 
Tadousac, and is passed on either side by vessels. 

Thirty- four miles from Tadousac rise the enormous 
masses of rock called " Point Eternity " and " Cape 
Trinity," of which the accompanying engraving is a 
very truthful representation. 

Point Eternity is estimated to be two thousand feet 
above the water, and is a perpendicular wall of granite ; 
the water is very deep at the base, and the steamei's 
pass so near that the rocks can almost be touched by 
the hand. 



152 HAI HA! BAY. 



Cape Trinity is a point of rock divided into three 
portions, each bearing some slight resemblance to a 
human head; and probably thus received its name 
from some wandering priest. Separating these two 
promontories is a little bay, called Trinity Cove, 
which in its loveliness presents a strong contrast to 
the sternness and sublimity of Point Eternity and Cape 
Trinity. 

St. John's Bay is a small cove on the southern 
shore, where there is a small lumber establishment. 

Fifty-seven miles from Tadousac opens Ha! Ha! 
Bay. The passage to the Bay is on the left, while 
the Saguenay proper comes down on the right. At 
the head of this Bay are large lumber establishments. 
The little village is situated upon the bank rising 
gradually to some height from the water. Here, for 
the first time since entering the Saguenay, are seen 
cultivated fields and gardens. There is a Catholic 
church here, which is served by three Oblat Fathers. 
Ships frequently visit this place for lumber, large 
quantities of which are exported. 

Fifteen miles from Ha! Ha! Bay is the Hudson 
Bay Company's post at Chicoutimi. Large quanti- 
ties of lumber are also exported from this place, thus 
rendering it one of quite considerable business. The 
steamers, on their pleasure excursions, do not usually 
ascend the river farther than Ha! Ha! Bay, as, a few 



R I V E R S A G U E N A Y. 153 

miles below Chicoutimi, there is a bar which can only 
be passed at high tide, and thus they are liable to be 
detained. 

The Saguenay is not navigable above Chicoutimi, 
as the rapids of St. John commence immediately 
above the village. The voyage up the Saguenay is 
one that those visiting Quebec should by no means 
omit. This river is not only celebrated for its natural 
beauties, but for its historical associations. The Sa- 
guenay was known before Stadacona or Hochelaga, 
and Jaques Cartier speaks of it as "a very deep 
river, running between high mountains of naked stone." 

There is one singularity about this river, which is, 
the want of anchorage ; and even in the small bays 
ships are obliged to make fast to the rocks on shore, 
instead of depending upon their anchors. 

The immense depth of w^ater of course prevents 
accumulations of " debris " from the falling rocks, and 
the banks are a perfect wall of granite down to the 
water's edge. 

The o-randcur and solitude of this noble river must 

o 

be seen to be appreciated. From Tadousac to Chi- 
coutimi is a continuation of grand and imposing 
scenery, and the traveler finds himself completely 
exhausted of terms to express his admiration. 



151- ROUTE FROM MONTREAL. 



ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO SARATOGA THROUGH 
LAKE CHAVIPLAIK 

Opposite Montreal, and connected by a ferry, is 
tlie depot where the cars are taken for Rouse's Point, 
passing through the village of St. Johns. This place 
was besieged and captured by the Americans, in 1775. 

Lake Champlain received its name from Samuel 
Champlain, who discovered it in 1608. One of the 
Indian names given to it was Canaideri-Guarunte, 
signifying the mouth or door of the country. Another 
was Petawa-bouque, signifying alternate land and 
water 

Rouse s Point is the termination of the Ogdens- 
burgh Railroad, and there is an immense depot directly 
at the steamboat landing. Here, passengers for Bos- 
ton can take the Vermont Central Railroad ; or, if they 
desire a sail on Lake Champlain, can go to Burlington, 
and there take the Burlington and Rutland Railroad. 

Plattsburgh, on the west side of the lake, is a 
handsome town, and is celebrated as the scene of 
McDoNouGii's victory, on the 11th of September 1814. 
The Legislature of New York presented Commodore 



li;';'iril !ii 




|iillife:|iillkiii,liiHl: li||Slifej 



ETHAN ALLEN. 157 

McDoNOUGH with a farm of one hundred acres, situ- 
ated upon Cumberland Head. 

Burlington is situated upon the Vermont side of 
the lake. It is built upon a slope rising gradually 
from the water, and is one of the handsomest towns 
on the route. 

The University of Vermont is at this place, and 
delightfully situated upon a hight sloping to the lake. 
About half a mile from the university is a little bury- 
ing ground, completely embowered in shrubbery, over- 
looking the river Winooski ; and within this inclosure 
rest the remains of Ethan Allen, in a plain tomb, 
covered with a granite slab bearing the following 

inscription : 

" The 

Corporeal Part 

of 

General Ethan Allen, 

Bests beneath this stone, 

The 12th day of February, 1789, 

Aged 50 years. 

His spirit tried the mercies of his God, 

In whom alone he beheved and strongly trusted." 

A few years since the tomb was struck by lightning, 
and the granite slab severed in twain; not, however, 
injuring the inscription. 

Crown Point, situated on the west side of the 
lake, is now a ruin. It was built by the French, in 



158 



CROWN POINT. 



1731, and called Fort St. Frederick. In 1759, it 
was taken by General Amherst, and held by the 
English until 1775, when it was taken by Colonel 
Warner — the same day that Colonel Allen took 
Ticonderoga. 

This fortress was never entirely finished, though the 
English spent nearly ten millions upon it and its out- 
works. These works are much better preserved than 
those at Ticonderoga; among the spoils, at the time 
it was taken by Colonel Warner, were a hundred and 
fourteen cannon, of which sixty-one only were fit for 
service. 




FORT TICONDEROGA. 161 



TICONDEROGA. 

The ruins of old Fort Ticonderoga are situated 
on a peninsula, formed by Lake Champlain and the 
outlet of Lake George. The Indian name was Cheon- 
DEROGA, and was slightly changed by the French to 
its present appellation. This post was built by the 
French in 1756. Mount Independence, on the east 
side of the lake, was also fortified, and remains of some 
of the old works can still be seen. 

In 1759 this post was evacuated by the French, 
and the English occupied it. They retained possession 
of it till 1775, when it was surprised and taken on 
the 10th of May, by the Americans, under Colonel 
Ethan Allen. "The commandant of the fort was 
surprised in his bed by Allen, Arnold, and a few of 
their followers, who had entered by a subterranean 
passage, and made themselves masters of it, without 
any loss. On being ordered to surrender, he asked, 
by what authority he was required to do so: Allen 
replied, *I demand it in the name of the great Jehovah, 
and of the Continental CongTess.' " The Congress, 
however, knew nothing of the matter, its first meeting 
being held some hours after this transaction. 

In 1777, the British armv. under General Burgoyne, 



IQ2 LAKE GEORGE. 

on tlieir route to Saratoga, appeared before this post. 
They erected a battery on Mount Defiance, which is 
elevated seven hundred and twenty feet above the 
lake, and completely commanded the fort. General 
St. Clair was forced to evacuate it; the Americans 
never retook it, and it was suffered to go to decay. 

The Champlain boats proceed up the lake to White- 
hall. Those desirous of seeino; Lake George, leave 
the boat here, and are conveyed in carriages a distance 
of three miles and a half, to the "Lake George 
Steamboat Landino-." 

o 

This lake is celebrated for its romantic and varied 
scenery, and the transparency of its waters. It is 
thirty-six miles long, and from two to three miles in 
width. It was called Lac Sacrament, by the French, 
on account of the purity of its waters. The Indian 
name was Horicon. 

The steamer runs to Caldwell, at the south-west 
end of the lake. This is the site of Fort William 
Henry, and was the scene of the massacre which took 
place on the lOLh of August, 1756, and left such a 
stain upon the memory of Montcalm, that it was 
scarcely erased by his glorious death upon the plains 
of Abraham. 

The road from Caldwell to Glen's Falls, is through 
a wild country, abounding in historical incidents of the 
old French war, and of the Revolution. 



FAREWELL. 163 



Shortly after leaving Caldwell, we pass Bloodi 
Pond, into which, after an engagement in September 
1755, the bodies of a thousand French and English 
were thrown. From Caldwell passengers are convey- 
ed to Sandy Hill, by stages, and thence by railroad 
to Saratoga. 

We now take leave of you, who have journeyed so 
far with us, hoping that we have whiled away some 
few moments that might otherwise perhaps have been 
tedious; and, wishing you renewed health from the 
sparkling waters of Saratoga, and a pleasant return to 
your homes, we say — Farewell ! 



TABLES OF DISTANCES- 



DISTANCES BETWEEN BUEFALO AND QUEBEC. 

By the United States Mail Line. 



DOWN. 
Buffalo, 0.. 

Niagara Falls, - 22.. 22 

Lewiston,- 7.. 29 

Youngstown, 7.. 36 

Rochester, 75.. Ill 

Oswego, 60.. 171 

Sacketts Harbor, 42. .213 

Kingston, 33. .251 

Clayton, 22. .273 

AlxBay 12. .285 

Brockville, 24. .309 

Ogdensburgh, 12.. 321 

Gallop Rapids, ; . , 
DePlLce do. ' 5 between 

Matilda, 16. .337 

Willianisbur£h, 7. .344 

Chryseler's Farm bat- ? 

tie ground, 3 

Louisville, 7. .351 

Long SaulL Rapids, 

Cornwall, 17. .368 

St. Regis, (Indian,) 4. .372 

Lancaster, 16. .388 

Coteau Uu Lac, 20..40S 

Coleau Rapids, ^ 

Cedar do. > between 

Cascades do. ) 

La Chine, 3S..446 

Lachine Rapids, 

Montreal, 9. .455 

Quebec,' 180..635 



UP. 
Quebec, 0— 

Montreal, ...180-180 

La Chine, 9—189 

Beauharnais, 18._207 

Coteau Du Lac, 20—227 

Lancaster, 20..247 

St. Regis, 16-.263 

Cornwall, - 4. .267 

Williamsburgh, 24. .291 

Matilda, 7. .298 

Osdensburgh, 16. .314 

Brockville, 12.. 326 

AlxBay, 24. .350 

Clayton, 12..362 

Kingston, 22..384 

Sacketts Harbor, 38. .422 

Oswego, 42.. 464 

Rochester, 60.. 524 

Lewiston 82.. 606 

Niagara Falls, 7..613 

Buffalo 22.-635 



TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



1G5 



BUFFALO AND QUEBEC, 



By American Express Line. 



DOWN. 
Buffalo, 0. 

Niagara Falls, 22. 

Lewiston, 7. 

Toronto, 42. 

Cape Vincent, 170. 

Clayton,.. _ 18. 

Alx Bay, 12. 

Brnckville 24. 

Ogdensburgh, 12. 

Gallop Rapids, ) 

De Plan,.. 5 

Matilda, 16.. 

Willianisburgh, 7., 

Chryseler's Farm bat- > 

lie ground, 5 

Louisville, 

Lone Sault Rapids, 

Cornwall,. 17. 

St. Regis, (Indian.) 4. 

Lancaster, '. 16. 

Coteau du Lac, 20. 

Coteau Rapids, 

Cedar do. 

Cascades do 

La Chine, 48 

Rapids, 

Montreal, 9. .441 

Quebec, 180..621 



UP. 



7.. 337 

354 

.358 
374 
394 



.432 



Quebec, 0.. 

Montreal, 180.. 180 

La Chine, 9.. 189 

Beauliarnais, 18. .207 

Coteau duLac, 20..227 

Lancaster, 20.. '247 

St. Regis, (Indian,) 16. .263 

Cornwall, 4. .267 

Louisville, 17. .284 

Willianisburgh, 7. .291 

Matilda, 7. .298 

Oedensbursh, 16. .314 

BrockviUe, 12.. 326 

Alx Bay, 24.-350 

Clayton, 12.. 362 

Cape Vincent 18..380 

Toronto, 170. .550 

Lewiston, 42. .59k 

Niasara Falls,.. 7. .599 

Buffalo, 22.. 621 



NIAGARA FALLS AND NEW YORK, 

Via Oswego, by United States Mail Line. 



EAST. 

Niagara Falls, 0.. 

Lewiston, 7.. 7 

Youngstown, 7.. 14 

Rochester, 75.. 89 

Oswego, 60.. 149 

Syracuse,... 35.. 184 

Rome, 38..222 

Utica, 15. .237 

Herkimer, 15..2.')2 

Little Falls, 6. .258 

St. Johnsville, 10..20S 

Fort Plain 6. .274 

Palatine Bridge,... 3. .277 

Fonda... II. .288 

Amsterdam, II.. 299 

Schenectady, 16.. 315 

Albany, 16. .331 

New York, 147..478 



WEST. • 
New York, O.- 
Albany ....147..147 

Schenectady, 16.. 163 

Amsterdam, 16. .179 

Fonda, 11. .190 

Palatine Bridge, 11. .201 

Fort Plain, 3. .204 

St. Johnsville, 6. .210 

Little Falls, 10.. 220 

Herkimer, 6. .226 

Utica, 15..241 

Rome, 15. .256 

Syracuse, 38..294 

Oswego. 35. .329 

Rochester, 60. .399 

Lewiston 82.. 471 

Niagara Falls 7..478 



166 



TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



BUFFALO AND NIAGAILA FALLS RAILROAD. 



Buffalo, 0.. 

Black Rock, 3.. 3 

Cherry's, 3.. 6 

Tonawarida, 5.. 11 

Cayusa Creek, 6.. 17 

Schlosser, 3. .20 

Niagara Falls, 2..22 



Niasara Falls, 0.. 

S^chlosser, 2.. 2 

Cayuga Creek, 3.. 5 

Tonawanda, 6. .11 

Cherry's, 5. .16 

Black" Rock, 3.. 19 

Buffalo, 3..22 



NIAGARA FALLS AND NEW YORK, 
Via Toronto and Cape Vincent, by American Express Line. 



EAST. 

Niagara Falls, 0.. 

I.ewision, 7.. 7 

Toronto 42.. 49 

Cape Vincent 17U..219 

Chamont,-. 11. .230 

Limerick, 6.-236 

Brownville, 4.. 210 

Waiertown... 4_.244 

Adams Centre, 10. .254 

Adams, 3. .257 

Pierrepont Manor, 5.. 262 

Mannsville, 2..2G4 

Sandy Creek, 5. .269 

Richland, 5.-274 

Albion, 4. .278 

Kasoas, 7.. 285 

Williamstown, 3..2SS 

Camden, 10. .298 

McConnelsvjlle, 5. .303 

Tabers,.. 2..305 

Rome, 11.-316 

Uiica,.. 15..331 

Herkimer, 15. .346 

St. Johnsville, 16. .302 

Fonda, , 20. .382 

Amsterdam, 11.. 303 

Schenectady, 16. .409 

Albany, 16..42o 

New York 147-.572 



WEST. 

New York, 0.. 

Albany, ...147. .147 

Schenectady, 16.-163 

Amsterdam, 16-. 179 

Fonda, 11.-190 

St. Johnsville, 20--210 

Herkmier, 16..226 

Utica, 15.-241 

Rome, 15-. 256 

Tabergr, 11.-267 

McConiielsville, 2- .269 

Camden, 5. .274 

Williamstown, ]0..'2S4 

! Kas..a-, 3.-287 

I Albion, 7.-294 

, Richland, 4. .298 

! Sandy Creek, 5. .303 

Mannsville, 5.-308 

Pierrepont Manor, 2.-310 

Adams, 5--315 

Adams Center, 3.-318 

Waiertown,-.. ., 10.. 323 

Brownville, 4.-339 

Limerick, 4.-336 

Chamont, 6.. 342 

Capp Vincent, il..353 

Toronto, 170--523 

Lewiston, 42--565 

Niagara Falls,.. 7.-572 



TABLES or DISTANCES. 



167 



MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 



DOWN. 

Montreal, 0. 

Vareiiiies, 15. 

Wiiliani Henry,... 30. 

Lake Si. Peter,... 8. 

St. Francis, 30. 

Three Rivers, 7. 

St. Anne, 25. 

llichelieu Rapids, 20. 

Cape Sante, 15. 

Cape Rouge, 22. 

Quebec, 8. 



. 15 

. 45 
. 53 
. 83 
. 90 
.115 
.135 
.150 
.172 
.180 



Quebec, 0.. 

Cai)e Rouge, 8.. S 

Cape Same, 22.. 30 

Uiclielieu Rapids, 15.. 45 

St. Anne, 20.. fi5 

Three Rivers, 25.. 90 

St. Francis, 7.. 97 

Lake St. Peter, 30.. 127 

William Henry, 8. .135 

Varennes, 30.. 165 

Montreal, 15.. 180 



SAEATOGA AND WHITE HALL RAILEOAD. 



White Hall, 0.. 

Comstock, 7.. 7 

Fort Ann, 4. .11 

Smith's Basin, 5.. 16 

Dunham's Basin, 4. .21) 

Fort Edward, 4. .24 

Moreau, 1..25 

Gansevoorls, 6.. 31 

Saratoga, 11.-42 



Saratoga, 0.. 

Gansevoorts, 11.. 11 

Moreau, 6. .17 

Fort Edward, 1..18 

Dunham's Basin, 4. .22 

Smiths Basin, 4. .26 

Fort Ann, 5.. 31 

Comstock, 4. .35 

White Hall, 7.-42 



Saratoga to Troy, 25 miles. 

Saratoga to Schenectady, 22 miles. 



MONTREAL AND NEW YORK, 
Through Lake Champlain. 



GOING SOUTH. 

Montreal, 0. 

St. .Johns. 24. 

Rouse's Point, 24. 

Pia'tsburgh, 25. 

Biirlmsion, 25. 

Ticonderoga, 58. 

White Hal), 24. 

Saratoza .39. 

Troy, -. 27. 

Albany, 6. 

New York, 147. 



. 24 
. 48 
. 73 
. 98 
.156 
.180 
.219 
.246 
.2.^>2 



GOING NORTH. 




New York, 


0. 




Albany, 


147. 


.147 


Trov,. 


6 


I'iS 


Parato^a, 


27. 


ISO 


White Hall, 


39. 


.219 


Ticonderoga 


24. 


243 


Burlinsrton, 


58. 


.301 


Plaiisbnrsrh, 


25. 


-326 


Rouse's Point, 


25. 


.3.51 


St. Johns, 


24. 


.375 


Montreal, 


84. 


.399 



168 



TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



TICONDEROGA TO SARATOGA, 

Througli Lake George. 

Ticonderoga, 

Caldwell, 40 

Saratoga,; 27 

Miles, 67 



OGDEITSBURGH AND BOSTON, 
Via Vermcmt Central Railroad. 



EAST. 

Ogdensburgh, 0. 

Lisbon, 9. 

Madrid, 8. 

Potsdam, 8. 

Knapp's, 3- 

Brasher Falls, 7_ 

Lawrence, 6_ 

Moira, 6. 

Brush Mills, 2. 

Bangor, 6. 

Malone, 6. 

Burk, 7. 

Chateausay, _ 5. 

EUenburgh, 17, 

Chazy, 6. 

Centerville, 7. 

Moor's, 3. 

Champlain, 8. 

Rouse's Point, 4. 

Alburgh, -- 5. 

Swanton, 8. 

Sl. Albans, 10. 

Colcliester, 20. 

Essex .Junction, 7. 

Richmond, 9. 



Waterbury, 13 

Montpelier, 11 

Northfield,-... 10 

Roxbury, 7 

Braintree, 8 

South RoyaUon, 20 

Whi'e River Junction, 19 

Lebanon, 4 

Canaan, 13 

West Andover, 19 

Franklin, 14 

Concord, 15 

Manchester, 17 

Nashua, 17 

Lowell, 14 

Woburn, 15 

Medford, 5 

Boston, 5 



. 17 
. 25 
. 23 
. 35 
. 41 

- 47 
. 49 

- 55 
. 61 
. OS 

- 73 
. 90 
. 96 
.103 
.106 
.114 
.118 
.123 
.131 
-141 
.161 
.168 
.177 
.190 
.201 
-211 
.2J8 
-226 
-246 
-265 
-269 
-282 
-301 
-315 
-330 
-347 
-264 
-378 
-393 
-398 
.403 



Boston, 0.. 

Medford, 5-. 

Woburn, 5.. 

Lowell,- „ 15.. 

Nashua, 14.. 

Mancliester, 17.. 

Concord, 17.. 



Franklin, 15.. 

West Andover, 14.. 

Canaan, 19.. 

Lebanon, 13.. 

White River .Junction, 4.. 

South RoyaUon, 19.. 

Braintree,- 20-. 

Roxbury, 8-. 

Northfield, 7.. 

Montpelier, 10. 

Waierbury, 11. 

Richmond,. 13. 

Essex Junction,... 9. 

Colchester, 7. 

St. Albany 20. 

Swanton, 10. 

Aibur^h, 8. 

Rouse's Point, 5. 

Champlain, 4. 

Moore's, 8. 

Centerville, 3. 

Chazv, 7. 

Ellenhurgh,.. 6 



5 

10 

25 

39 

56 

73 

88 

102 

121 

134 

138 

157 

177 

.185 

.192 

.202 

.213 

.226 

.235 

.242 

.262 

.272 

-280 

.285 



Chateaugay, 17. 

Burk, 5. 

Malone, 7. 

Banffor, 6. 

Brush Mills, 6. 

Moira, 2. 

Lawrence, 6. 

Brasher Falls, 6., 

Knapp's, 7.. 

Poisdam, 3. 

■Madrid, 8.. 

Lisbon, 8.. 

Ogdensburgh, 9.. 



.300 
.307 
.313 
.330 
.335 
342 
.348 
,354 
.356 
362 
,368 
375 
378 
386 
394 



TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



169 



OGDENSBURGH AND BOSTON, 
Via Eutland and Burlington Railroad. 

AVEST. 

Boston, C. 

VV.iltham, 10.. 10 

Concord, 10.. 20 

South Acton, 5.. 25 

Groton, 10.. 35 

Leominster, 11.. 46 

Fitchburg, 4.. 50 

Wc-tminster, 5.. 55 

South Ashburnham, 4.. 59 

Winchendon, 8.. 67 

Fitzwilliam, 9.. 76 

Troy, 5.- 81 

Keene, 10.. 91 

Westmoreland, 12. .103 

Walpole, 6. .109 

Bellows Falls, 4.. 113 

Rockingham, 6_.119 

Biirtonsviile, 4.-123 

Chester, 4.. 127 

Gassetts,.. 4.. 131 

Duttonsville, 5. .136 

Proctorsville, 2.. 133 

Ludlow, 3. .141 

Mount Holly, 7. .148 

Ciittingsville, 8.. 156 

Clarendon, 7. .163 

Rutland, 6.. 169 

Pittslbrd, 9.. 178 

Brandon, 8.. 186 

Whiting, 6. .192 

Salisbury, 5. .197 

Middlebury, 6. .203 

New Haven, 7. .210 

Vergennes, 5. .215 

Ferrisburs, 6. .221 

Charlotte, 4. .225 

Shelburne, 5. .230 

Burlington, 6. .236 

Rouse's Point,. 50.. 286 

Ogdensburg, 118.. 404 



EAST. 

Ogdensburgh, 

Rouse's Point,. 

Burlington, 

Shelburne,. 


... 0.. 
...118.. 118 
... 50.. 168 
... 6 .174 


Charlotte, 

Ferrisburgh, 


... 5..179 
— 4. .183 
... 6.. ISO 




... 5 .194 


Middlebury,. 

Salisbury, 

Whitin°-, 


... 7.. 201 

... 6..207 

. 5 212 


Brandon 


6 218 


Pittsford, 

Rutland, 

Clarendon, .. . 


... 8..226 
... 9. .235 
... 6 241 


Cuttingsviile, 

Mount Holly, 

Ludlow, 

Proctorsville, 

Duttonsville, 

Gassetts,.. 

Chester 


... 7. .248 
... 8.-256 
... 7. .263 
... 3..266 
... 2.. 268 
... 5.. 273 
-. 4 277 




... 4 281 




... 4 285 


Bellows Falls 

Walpole, 

Westmoreland, 

Keene, 

Troy, .. 


— 6..291 
... 4. .295 
... 6. .301 
... 12..313 
10 323 




... 5.-328 


Winchendon, 

South Ashburnham,... 


... 9..337 
— 8..345 
... 4 349 


Fitchburgh, 

Leominster, 


--. 5-35i 

4 358 




... 11. .369 


South Acton, 

Concord, 

Waltham, 

Boston, 


... 10.. 379 
... 5. .384 
... 10..394 
... 10. .404 



OSWEGO AND SYRACUSE RAILROAD. 



Oswego, 0.. 

Fulton, ....12..12 

Laweons, 5..i7 

Baldwinsville, 6. .23 

Syracuse, 12. .35 



Syracuse,. 0.. 

Baldwinsville, 12. .12 

Lawsons, 6.. 18 

Fulton 5..23 

Oswego, 12—35 



170 



TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



OGDENSBTJRGH KAILEOAJ). 



Ogdcnsburgb, 0.. 

Lisbon, 9.. 9 

Madrid, 8.. 17 

Potsdam, 8.. 25 

Knapp's, 3.. 28 

Brasher Falls, 7.. 35 

Lawrence, -. 6.. 41 

Moira, 6.. 47 

Brush's Mills, 2.. 49 

Bangor, G.. 55 

Maione, 6.. 61 

Burk, 7.. 68 

Chateausray, 5.. 73 

Elleriburgh, 17.. 90 

Chazy, 6.. 96 

Ceriiervilje, 7..1U3 

Moore's, 3.-100 

Champlaiii, 8.. 114 

Rouse's Point, 4.. US 



Rouse's Poinl, 0-. 

Champlain, .. 4.. 4 

Moores, 8.. 12 

Ceniervilie, 3.. 15 

Chazv,- 7.. 22 

Elleh"burgh, 6.. 28 

Chateaugay, 17.. 45 

Biirk, 5.. 50 

Maione, 7.. 57 

i BauL'or, 6.. 63 

Brush's Mills, 6.. 69 

Moira, 2.. 71 

Lawrence, 6.. 77 

Brasher Falls, 6.. 83 

Knapp's, 7.. SO 

Polsdam, 3.- 93 

Madrid, 8.. 101 

Lisbon, 8.. 109 

Ogdensburgh, ., 9. .118 



BUFFALO AND CINCINNAn. 



BufTalo, by steamer to 

Cleveland, 190.. 190 

Berea, 12. .202 

Col'imbia, 6. .208 

Eaton, 4..21>2 

Grafton, 3..215 

Wellington, 11. .226 

New London, 11. .2:37 

Shelby, 20. .257 

Iberia, 13.-275 

Oxford, 19. .294 

Delaware, 8.-302 

Oranee, 7. .309 

Columbus, 16. .325 

West Jefferson 14. .339 

London, 11. .350 

Xenia, 30..3S0 

Waynesville, 14. .394 

Morrow, 14. .408 

Deerfield, 5.. 413 

Millbrd, 17..430 

Plainville, 5. .435 

Cincinnati, 10. .445 



Cincinnati, 0.. 

Plainville, 9.. 9 

Milford, 5.. 14 

Deerfield 18.. 32 

Mm-row, 5.. 37 

Waynesville, 14.. 51 

Xenia, 14.. 65 

London, 30.. 95 

West Jefferson, 11. .106 

Columbus, 14.. 120 

Oransre, 16.. 136 

Delaware, 7.. 143 

Oxford, 8.. 151 

Iberia, 19..170 

Shelbv, IS-.188 

New London, 20.. 203 

Wellington, 11. .219 

Grafton, .-. 11. .230 

Eaton, 3.-233 

Columbia, 4. .237 

Herea, 6..243 

Cleveland 12.-255 

Buffalo, by steamer, 190.. 445 



TABLES OF DISTill^CES. 



171 



NEW YORK TO NIAGARA FALLS, 
Via Central Railroad. 



New York to 

Albany, by steamboat, 147.-147 

Schenectady, 17. . 1 04 

Amsterdam. Itj.. 180 

Fonda, .' 11. .191 

Palatine Bridge, 1) ..202 

Fort Plain, 3.-20.5 

Si. Johnsvilie, 6. .211 

Little Fails, 10..221 

Herkimer, 7..*22S 

Frankfort, .-. 5. .233 

Utica, 9. .242 

Whiiesboro, 4. .246 

bri.skany, 3.. 249 

Rome, 7. .256 

Verona Center, 9. .'265 

Oneida,. 4. .209 

Canastota, y..274 

Chittenango, 6. .280 

Manlius, 7..2S7 

Syracuse, 8. .295 

Marcellus, 9. .304 

Half Way, 5. .309 

Skaneaieles Junction, 2. .311 

Auburn, 10.. 321 

Cayuga Bridge, 17-33S 

Seneca Falls, 3. .341 

Waterloo, 7, .348 

Geneva, 

East Vienna, 13. .361 

Canandalgua, 9.. 370 

Victor, - 9.-379 

Pittslord, 10--3S9 

Rochester, ....'. I0..399 

Churchville, 14. .413 

Bergen, 3.-416 

Byron, 8.. 424 

Baiavia, 8. .43-2 

Alexander, 8. .440 

ft.ttica, 3-. 443 

Darien City, 5. .448 

Alden 7.-455 

Town Lirw, 5. .400 

Lancaster, 5. .405 

BufTalo, 10.. 475 

Niat^ara FaJis, 22. .497 



Niagara Falls, 0.. 

ButTklo, 22.. 22 

Lancaster, 10.. 32 

Town Line, 5.. 37 

Alden, 5.. 4?. 

Durien Cily, 7.. 49 

Aiiica,. 5.. 54 

Alexander, 3.. 57 

Baiavia, 8.. 65 

Byron, S.. 73 

Bergen, S.. 81 

Churchville, 3.. 84 

Rochesier, _ 14.. 98 

Piusloril, 10.. 108 

Victor, 10.. 118 

Canandaisua, 9. .127 

East Vienlia, 9. .130 

Geneva, 

Waterloo, 13.-149 

Seneca Falls, 7.. 156 

Cayuga Bridge, 3.-159 

Auburn, 17-- 176 

Skaueateles .Junction, 10..1S6 

Half Way, 2.. 188 

Marcellus, 5.-193 

Syracuse, 9. .202 

Manlius, 8. .210 

Chittenango, 7. .217 

Canastota, 6. .223 

Oneida, 5. .228 

Verona Center, 4. .232 

Rnnie 9.-241 

Ori.Mcany,.. 7. .243 

Wliitcsboro, 3,-251 

Utica 4. .255 

FninkCort, 9. .'264 

Herkimer, 5. .209 

Little Falls, 7. .276 

St. .Johnsvilie, 10-.2Sr) 

Fort Plain, 6. .292 

Palatine Bridge, 3. .295 

Fonda II. .306 

Amsterdam, 11. .317 

Si-heneciadv, J 6.. 333 

Albany 17.. 350 

New York, by steamboat,. 147 -.497 



172 



TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



WATERTOWN AND ROME RAILROAD. 



-!}ape Vincent, 0.. 

Chaumont, 11.. 11 

Limerick, 6.. 17 

Brownville, 4-. '21 

Watenown, 4. .25 

Adams Centre, 10. .35 

Adams, 3. .36 

Pieirepont Manor, 5. .43 

Mannsville, 2. .45 

Sandy Creek, 5.-50 

Richland, 5. .55 

Albion, 4_.59 

Kasoag, 7.. 60 

Williamstovvn, 3..H9 

Camden, 10. .79 

McConnelsville, 5._S-1 

Taberg,... 2.. 86 

Rome, 11.. 97 



Rome, 0.. 

Tab.Tg, 11. .11 

McCoiinelsviiie, 2.. 13 

Camden, 5.-18 

Wiiliamstowii, I0..28 

Kasuas,. 3..31 

Albion", 7.-38 

Richland, 4. .42 

Sandv Creek, 5. .47 

Mannsville, 5-. 52 

Pierrepont Manor, 2. .54 

Adams, 5-. 59 

Adams Centre, .'^.62 

Wattrlown,-.. 10-. 72 

Brownville, 4. .76 

Limerick 4-80 

Chaumont, .,. 6-.86 

Cape Vincent, .* 11.. 97 



NEW YORK TO NIAGARA FALLS, 

Via Erie Railroad. 



New York, 0-. 

Piermont, .-. 25.- 25 

Clarkstown, 8.- 33 

Sutferns, 9.. 42 

Ramapo,.-. 2.. 44 

Monroe, _ 15.- 59 

Oxford,.- - .- 3.. 62 

Chester, 3-- 65 

Goshen, 5,. 70 

Delaware, 23-- 98 

Lackawaxen, 23--121 

Cochecton, - 20-- 141 

Deposit, 47. .187 

Susquehanna, 15.. 202 

Binshampton, 23. .225 

Owego, 22-247 

Tioga, - 5-252 

Chemunsr, 18-270 

Elmira,. 13.-283 

Coi-ning, 18.-301 

Canisteo, 36.-337 

Hornellsvrde, 5. .342 

Andover, -— 16.-35S 

Genesee, - -- 9-307 

Olean, 37-.404 

Allegany, 4.-408 

Cattaraugus, 30.-438 

Dayton, 9.. 447 

Forestville, 14.. 461 

Dunkirk, 8. .409 

BufRtln, by Stale Lino R.R.. 41 ..510 
Niagara Falls, 22. .532 



Niagara Falls, 0— 

Buffalo, - -.-22- 22 

Dunkirk, by State Line R.R.41- 63 

Forestville, 8- 71 

Dayron, 14-- 85 

Cattaraugus, 9.. 94 

Alleganv, 30.. 124 

Ulean, ." 4-.128 

Genesee 37. .165 

Andover. 9-. 174 

Honiellsville, 16.. 190 

Canisieo, 5.-195 

I Corning, - 36.-231 

Elmira, 18..249 

Chcmuns, - 13--262 

Tiosa, .:. - 18..280 

Ovveso, 5..285 

Binghampton, 22.-307 

Susquehanna, - 23.. 330 

Dejiosit 15--345 

Cochecton 47-392 

Lackawaxen. 20.. 410 

Delaware,.- ..33..433 

Goi^hen, 28.-461 

Chester, 5-466 

Oxford, 3. .469 

Monroe, 3. .473 

Ramapo, 15.. 487 

Sufferns, 2..489 

Clarkstown 9..498 

Pierinont. 3..507 

New York,. 25..532 



TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



173 



MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD. 

Distance from Buffalo to Detroit, (by steamer,) 280 miles 

Detroit to 

Dearborn, 10.. 

Waxne, 7.. 17 

Ypsilanti, ..12.. 2^!) 

Ann Arbor, 8.. 37 

Dexter, 10.. 47 

Chelsea. 9.. 56 

Grass Lake, 9.. 65 

Jackson, ..IT.. 76 

^idley's, 9_. 85 

Albion, 11.. 96 

Marshall, 12..I0S 

Battle Creek, 13.. 121 

Gaiesburgh, 14.. 135 

Kalamazoo, 8. .143 

Pawpaw, 17.. 160 

Decatur, 8.. 168 

Dowagiac, 11. .179 

Niles, 12.. 191 

Buchanan, 6.. 197 



Terre Co^jpee, 
New BuOo,.. 
Michigan City, 

Porter, 

Lake, 

State Line, 

Junction, 



6. .203 

15. .218 

10-. 228 

10.. 238 

6. .244 

J0..254 

9-.263 



Chicago, 15..278 



Chicago to 




Junction, 15.. 




Slate Line, 9.. 


ai 


Lake, 10.. 


34 


Porter, 6.. 


40 


Michisan City, 10.. 


50 


New Butfaio, 10.. 


60 


Terre Coupee, 15.. 


75 


Buchanan, 6.. 


81 


Niles, 6.. 


87 



Dowagiac, 12.. 99 

Decatur, 11.. 110 

Pawpaw,. 8.. 118 

Kalamazoo, 17.. 135 

Gaiesburgh, 8.. 143 

Battle Creek, 14. .157 

Marshall, 13. .170 

Albion, 12.. 182 

Gidley'E, 11. .193 

Jackson, 9..202 

Grass Lake, 11. .213 

Chelsea, 9. .222 

Dexter, 9. .231 

Ann Arbor, 10. .241 

Ypsilanti, 8.-249 

Wayne, 12..261 

Dearborn, 7.. 268 

Detroit, 10..278 



174 



TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



MICHIGAN SOUTHERN RAILROAD. 



Distance from Buffalo to Monroe, (by steamer,)- 
Distance from Buffalo to Toledo, (by sieaoier,) . 

Monroe Pier to 

Monroe Ciiy, 3J.. 

Ida, 9i-. 13 

Petersburg, ^ 7 .. 20 

Deerfield, 4 .. 24 

Palmyra, 5 .. -29 

Adrian, 7^.. 36g 

Clayton, 11 .. 47^ 

Hudson, 5|.- 53 

PittsCord, 7 — 60 

Osseo, 4 -- 64 

Hillsdale, 5^.. 69^ 

Jonesville, 5 .. 74^ 

Allen-s, Sk.. 83 

Uuincy, 3 .. 86 

Coldwater, 6^.. 921 

Branch, 2*.. 95 

Broiison. 8".-103 

Burr Oak, 7 ..llO 

Sturds, 6 ..116 

White Pigeon, 12 ..12S 

Consiantine, 4 ..132 

Bristol, 6 ..13S 

Elk-hart 9 ..147 

Mishawaka,... 11 ..15S 

Souih Bend, 4 .A&Z 

Terre Coupee, 11^-.. 173^ 

La Pone, 14i..lS8 

Holmes, 10 ..198 

Calumet, 8 ..206 

Bailey Town Junction, .. 5 ..211 

Indiana West Line, 26 ..237 

Chicago 11 ..248 



.240 miles. 
.250 miles. 



Chicago, .. 

Indiana West Line, II .. 

Bailey Town Junction, ..26 .. 

Calumet, 5 .. 

Holmes, 8 .. 

La Porte, 10 .. 

Terre Cou.oee, 14^.. 

South Bend, l!i.. 

ISTashawaka, 4 .. 

Elkhart, 11 .. 

Bristol, 9 .. 

(J'nnstantine, 6 .. 

White Pigeon, 4 .. 

Sturgi«, 12 .. 

Burr' Oak, 6 .. 

Bronson, 7 .. 

Branch, 8 .. 

Coldwater, 2^.. 

Quincy, 6^.. 

Allen's, 3 .. 

Jonesville, 8^.. 

Hillsdale, 5 .. 

Ossen, 55-. 

PittsCord, 4 . 

Hudson, 7 .. 

Clayton, Sf.. 

Adrian, 11 .. 

Palmyra 75-. 

Deerfield, 5 .. 

Petersbur.T, 4 .. 

Ida, 7 .. 

Monroe City, 9^.. 

Monroe Pier,.. 3^.. 



37 

42 

50 

60 

74i 

86 

90 
101 
NO 
116 
120 
132 
138 
145 
153 
15ti^ 
102 
165 
173§ 
178i 
1.84 
188 
195 
200i 
21 1| 
219 
224 
223 
235 
244i 
248 



Distance from Buffalo to Chicago, via Monroe, 485 miles. 

Disunce from Bulfalo to Chicago, via Toledo, 495 miles. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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